This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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2000 Travels May 26

FRIDAY 26 MAY     OPALTON

The day started out with a dull morning, but cleared, partly, later. The night rain was over.

I was very surprised at how dry the things under the spinifex roofed shelter had stayed, during the heavy rain of the night. It is very effective. It made a real difference, having a larger than usual expanse of dry ground for our outside living area, out there.

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The spinifex-roofed shelter was surprisingly waterproof

We spent some time fine tuning the camp – sieving ash from the campfire (the gem fossicking sieves were handy), setting up water in the big wash up bowl to settle the sediment, arranging the “furniture”.

We walked out into the nearby mullock heaps – a very short walk away – and noodled for a while. This consisted of scrabbling solidified dirt away from a selected area of heap and watching closely to see if any “colour” was unearthed in this way.

I found a fair sized piece of bright green opal, in a little “pipe” formation. I was actually walking around a low heap at the time and the angle of the sun was causing a green light to shine through it onto the ground, and it was that which caught my eye. I was just in the right place at the crucial minute or so – it was right on the surface of a heap. I wondered how many times it had been overlooked before. Beginner’s luck! I hope it will eventually cut into something really nice because the colour appears superb.

After lunch, we went back out again. Found some “fairy dust” pieces – little colour speckles in rock.

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Mullock heaps by our camp

When we’d had enough of scrabbling around in the dirt, drove a little way to the south, about 4kms, across Sandy Creek, which had a couple of fair sized waterholes in it, still.

I find it interesting how the general aridity of this sort of country enhances the attractiveness of any water feature that occurs. A little creek or water hole becomes somehow “special”, and noteworthy in a way that it would not be in an area where surface water is more abundant.

Fetched wood for our fire. There was plenty of that, lying about.

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Sandy Creek waterhole

Back at camp, I paid M for two of her gem trees – the one I had selected for us and another, mounted on a gidgee base, for P and K for Xmas. That will be a challenge to pack when we send off our presents!

L from the Outpost came round to see how we’d settled in. He said the young couple with the baby apparently left about 1am this morning, when the rain was heavy. It would have sounded even worse on the tin roof of their shelter and I guess they got worried about being able to make it out in their conventional car.

Tea was savoury mince and potato.


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2000 Travels May 25

THURSDAY 25 MAY   WINTON TO OPALTON   129kms

It took us a while to get away from Winton this morning. We had to get gas bottles filled, stock up on water, and batten down the van contents for somewhat rough dirt road travel.

Refuelled at the Caltex Depot – 83cpl. Also filled up the two jerry cans, which had been empty since last year.

Went to the Post Office and arranged for the mail that was awaiting at Cloncurry for us to collect, to be sent here to Winton. Apparently, there is a full bag!

Then we did a top up of groceries and went to get some meat from the butcher. Whilst I was in there, John came in and asked the butcher if he had any meat scraps suitable for yabby bait. A very attractive looking fellow customer asked him where he was going yabbying and John replied somewhere out around Opalton. She was interested by that; turned out that she and her partner have a claim near Opalton, at Devil Devil and she invited us out there to have a look at the operation. We arranged to meet her at the Outpost store next Thursday, when the mail vehicle comes in.

It was midday when we left Winton. We ate lunch in Truck, going along.

It took us over two hours to get to Opalton, taking it easy with the van. It travelled well and very little got disarranged inside. John noticed altered handling with the extra weight of the jerry cans on the van back – we have never had that before – and with the full water tanks.

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Mulga and spinifex country around Opalton

M and husband B seemed pleased to see us – and maybe rather surprised that we had come, after all.

It took us a while to set up camp, with the van beside a bough shelter, under which we set up the camp gear – camp stove, Chescold fridge, table and chairs. We had the best of both worlds! There was a stone fireplace built nearby too.

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Camp set up at Opalton Bush Camp

There was some piped water to the Bush Camp – from a nearby dam, filled by a windmill pump. B told us it is heavily sedimented but that it can be cleared for dishwashing and the like by using ash from the fire to “flock” it. Maybe by tomorrow we would have some ash. It would be useful if we could conserve the better van water for cooking and drinking.

Our camping here cost the princely sum of $2 a night! There are amenities in an Atco building, with flush toilets and cold showers.

It was nearly dark by the time all was organized. There was enough of a breeze to prevent mosquitoes, but a cloud build up that could mean rain. On yesterday’s drive, John saw a long line of black ants crossing the road; he reckons that means rain is coming.

I cooked tea outside, on the new Coleman stove we had not used before – it was excellent to use. Tea was chicken noodle soup, hamburger in toast, and a pear for dessert.

We stayed outside to eat tea, sat by a small fire in the fireplace for a while, then went in and read for a while. The nights here would have to be early to bed, to conserve the 12volt power in the van. The solar panel does seem to be working but to date, existing for any time on the system is untried.

There were four other lots of campers here – caretakers M and B, a French couple who were here the other day and have been for over a week, someone in an older van who arrived after us, and a couple with a young baby who arrived last night and are camping in a tin shed here, who seem not at all prepared for camping out.

There were spits of rain early in the evening and heavy rain at times during the night.

We went to bed about 9pm. It was great to be camped out in the bush again.

The gidgee wattle that was in the bush around us was smelling in the rain – the “Stinking Wattle” so called.

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To Opalton


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2000 Travels May 23

TUESDAY 23 MAY     WINTON

We got up at a respectable hour, and after breakfast, drove across the road to the Caltex fuel depot, to top up Truck. Diesel was 83cpl here. The man said he was getting low on diesel, and waiting on the tanker to be able to come down the road from Hughenden – currently closed due to recent rains.

We left about 10.30, to head south to Opalton. Took the Jundah Road, initially, for 15kms, then turned onto the unsealed Opalton road. This skirted the edge of the Bladensburg National Park, on my list of places to visit, here. Its low jump ups – or flat topped hills – looked interesting.

After Bladensburg we were into flat grasslands, but with enough trees and scrubland to keep it interesting. There were good fat cattle about, and some sheep. Roos and emus were also plentiful.

We saw a flock of cockatiels and a number of black faced wood swallows.

It was not too hard to find our way, despite the lack of signs. The man at the gem shop had given us useful information about that.

We got to Opalton about midday, and went to the bush store – the Opalton Outpost – that the shop man had told us about. As this was one of the few structures about the place, it was pretty obvious. It was very rough – a sort of pole construction with brush roofing and lots of gaps to the open air. The shelf stock was very sparse, dust covered, and – I suspected – very out of date. Several chooks wandered in and out and one of their kind – stuffed – had pride of place on a shelf. I had a feeling that the poultry might roost on the shelves at night!

A rather scruffy looking guy – L – was looking after the store. He showed us a piece of the boulder opal that they find in these parts. It was really pretty, perhaps resembling the cooked matrix opal we’d seen at Andamooka last year, but with lots more fire and large patches of colour. L directed us to go to the bush camp area – it surprised us that this existed – where, he said, 76 year old M would tell us all about it and show us what to do to fossick.

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Boulder opal

M was lovely – very talkative. She had a huge blue, rough surfaced sapphire on a chain round her neck. She found it near Sapphire a couple of years ago.

After we’d eaten our packed lunch, M took us out noodling on the mullock heaps of the old mine pits. There was a large area, just behind the bush camp area, that had been mined about a hundred years ago. The miners dug shafts and the mullock heaps were piled up around these. M explained that often they were seeking large and spectacular pieces of opal and didn’t bother with small bits. So it was remarkably easy to find little pieces on the heaps, or rocks that might have opal in.

The opal fields here were developed from the 1880’s. At one stage there were about 600 people on the field, with the attendant small town that grew up to meet their needs. Life was tough, with lack of water being an issue, though, ironically, ground water filling into the shafts was a big problem. A bigger problem was the decline in the demand for opal in the early 1900’s, that affected all the then existing opal fields in Australia. Some say that the diamond mining companies of South Africa felt that their product was so threatened by opal that they managed to circulate the idea that opal was unlucky – this persisted for decades.

So opal mining, and Opalton, declined and the place was virtually abandoned by the 1920’s, and crumbled away. However, a revival in recent times has seen miners using machines take up claims in the area. The central part of old Opalton was designated as a fossicking area and thus protected from machine mining. All very interesting and nothing we’d known about, previously.

John had already decided, before we went noodling with M, that he wanted to come out here with the van and stay at the bush camp for a while. I liked the place and the “away from it all” nature of it. So, we arranged with M to return here to camp.

M and her husband caretake the Bush Camp and stay here for several months over winter.

We inspected M’s gem trees, which she sells for $20. These were small tree shapes made from wire, with 42 small pieces of opal on the branches – all glued to a polished piece of rock. I found them quirky and very attractive, and selected one to be put aside for me to buy when we return here. I thought I might buy a second one as a Xmas present for P and K. There was some really good colour in the chips she uses.

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The gem tree made from boulder opal pieces

We left Opalton at 4pm, after a much more interesting time than I had anticipated.

There were many kangaroos and emus to dodge on the drive back! We drove 261kms today.

Tea was leek and onion soup, steak for John and salad for me.

We had planned to have some bills from home – rates and the like – that would be due for payment, catch up with us at a town, soon. I suggested that we could phone and find out details and pay by phone – and that would solve that impediment to our going “out bush” for a while.

What is really noticeable at Winton is the number of vans that come in late in the day and leave again early next morning. They don’t know what they are missing in some of these outback towns.