This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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1998 Travels October 14

WEDNESDAY 14 OCTOBER     MOUNT SURPRISE

We got up fairly early again, to go back out to O’Briens Creek.

On the way, stopped in the village for fuel – 76cpl – and a big block of chocolate, to take out to Sam in appreciation of his help.

We went straight to Sam’s to give him the gift, before it got too melty – the day was heating up.

Then called briefly at Diggers Rest. Sam had suggested we drive up to Blue Hills, to the north, and try fossicking up there. We double checked the route, on our mud map, with Gordon, then set off.

The track was the roughest one we’d encountered in our time out here, with a couple of very rough jump ups. I walked the worst – on the pretext of taking photos of Truck meeting the challenge!  Which it and John did beautifully. There was an extensive view to the south from the top of the second jump up – can see how the place got its name as we were quite high up.

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The first jump-up on the track to Blue Hills

As we’d been told, there was a little sign by the road that indicated we’d reached the Blue Hills area. It was about 5 or 6 kms from Diggers Rest. As it was just sitting propped up by a rock at the road side, John picked it up for a photo shot.

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Blue Hills found! Area partially burnt

It was different to the country where we’d fossicked, down below. That was mostly centred around the creek. Up top it was much harder to tell where to look for topaz. There were areas of quartz pebbles and small stones in places scattered across the flat ground, and  little creek channels. But there was nowhere obvious that was diggings. The big bushfire had burnt across here, so at least there was fairly open ground.

John specked around in the areas of the little creek gullies.  As I really didn’t know where to look,  and got a bit bored after a while, I wandered off to look at the scenery and take photos. But still kept my eyes on the ground. In an area of quartz wash on the surface, by a burnt bush trunk, I found three big, clear pieces of what I thought were quartz and pocketed them. Showed John when I wandered back near him – he admired their size and we thought they were worth hanging on to.

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The are where we fossicked at Blue Hills

It became very hot in the exposed, rocky area and so we called it quits, after having lunch. Going back down the jump ups was a little fearsome!

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Looking down from the top of the second jump-up – towards the south

Went back to Diggers Rest to return our sieve to Gordon, as we think we’ve done enough fossicking. I showed him the pieces of quartz I found. Was astounded when he said they were blue topaz! The best! Three great big chunks of same. What a fluke. I told him how I’d just found them sitting on the top of the ground. We concluded that they must have been under a thick bush, that got burnt in the recent fire, thus exposing them. You can be in the right place at the right time……What a good way to end this little adventure.

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O’Briens Creek fossicking area. Blue Hills area is right up at the top of map

Back at camp, there were neighbours in the next site, with quite a big van. It seemed a bit saggy at each end. They are also planning long term travel – in their case, ten years or more. Right now, I’m aiming for five or six years for us. They went out in the late afternoon to fossick.

I made curried tuna and rice for tea, and we opened a tin of apricots.

It was a very hot and still night.


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1998 Travels October 11

SUNDAY 11 OCTOBER     MOUNT SURPRISE

Again, it was an early start, and back out to the topaz fields. We seem to have the fossicking “bug” – John more so than me.

Went to Elsie’s place to collect our pick from Sam. He had a young couple there for a lesson.

We found a couple more bits, at the same place. But there is a big difference between finding bits of topaz and finding pieces that are worth cutting into gemstones for jewellery!

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Miner John all hot and sweaty at O’Briens Creek

When it was starting to get too hot, pulling rocks out of the creek bed, we drove further up Tourmaline Gully, just for a look about. Then we drove out the Bulleringa road, that is shown on our road map of the Gulf Country, towards the west, for maybe ten kms. That was enough to show us some quite spectacular rock country. We will ask Joe about going all the way out to the Bulleringa National Park that is marked on the map. Our general tourist information, and books, don’t say anything about this.

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Around Tourmaline Gully

It is obvious that there has been a sizeable bushfire through these parts, and not too long ago.

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O’Briens Creek countryside

Drove back to town and followed the same routine as yesterday – sleep in the cool van, then a swim as the afternoon began to get a little cooler.

Had a talk with Joe. Apparently there was a large fire, earlier in the year. It started beyond the Forty Mile Scrub and burned in a NNW direction, through a lot of this country, over about a week.

John told Joe that we were happy to stay on longer here, as long as they could keep coming up with interesting suggestions for things to do! They are doing all they can to keep us here. He said that if we needed to top up our food supplies, we could give Jo a list and she would fax it through to the places in Atherton that supply them, and the order would be delivered with theirs, on the weekly supply truck. Very good. Thinking of things for us to do is a good exercise for them, too, because it will provide resource material for them to give future guests.

For tea I made a vegie stir fry with oyster sauce, and boiled rice.


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1998 Travels October 10

SATURDAY 10 OCTOBER     MOUNT SURPRISE

Got up reasonably early and after breakfast headed back out to the topaz fields.

It is a very attractive drive out into the granite hill country. It gets rather rugged and dramatic, in parts. The dirt road goes through cattle properties. At one point, there is a watering point near the road, where we encountered a group of cows, yesterday and today, and much moo-poo on the road. We smelled it long after we’d passed!

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Cattle watering point on O’Briens Creek track

We called in at Diggers Rest and bought a small pick.

We went and dug in the creek where Sam had showed us yesterday. Found a few pieces. Sam arrived and dug near us. I hope he didn’t mind us being there.

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The dramatic country at the O’Briens Creek fossicking area

It is not easy terrain to excavate. The creek bed is a mix of finer gravel interspersed with stones, rocks and larger boulders. It is frustrating, not knowing how many times this same creek bed may have been turned over before! Once some wet season storms have filled the creek, the ground gets settled back down and looks like it hasn’t been dug.

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So – what has been dug over and what has not?

It got very hot, so we gave up at midday, feeling like we would get heat stroke if we went on any longer. Sam took our pick home with him to sharpen – very nice of him.

We went back to camp and slept for most of the afternoon, with the air-con going, then went for a swim.

There was a group of nearly 20 Harley Riders, from Townsville, in for the night, staying in the cabins. Three of them were swimming at the same time as us and were very pleasant to talk to. The riders seemed to drink a lot through the afternoon, so were very quiet at night!

Tea was T-bone steak, potato baked in foil – in the frypan outside – and onions.

The sunset was vivid again.


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1998 Travels October 9

FRIDAY 9 OCTOBER     MOUNT SURPRISE

We had to be up much earlier than usual for our trip out to O’Briens Creek. This “official”  topaz fossicking area is about 40kms to the NW of Mt Surprise, along a reasonable gravel road.

We had arranged for a lesson on fossicking for topaz, from Sam, at Elsie’s Place, on the fields.  He does the instructing on her leasehold. We had to be there by 8.30am. Starting at this hour made sense on a hot day. The lesson cost $10 each. We had no trouble finding the place, following the instructions given at the PO yesterday, by the lady who booked for us.

The fossicking is easy enough – just dig up the gravelly dirt, sieve it, and look. The hard part is figuring out where to dig, when you are on your own! Sam is an interesting old guy. He and John got on really well. After he had showed us the basics – and we had found a few little pieces – he showed us where he is currently digging at Tourmaline Gully, up O’Briens Creek. We had to drive there, following him, but it was not far. Glad he showed us though, as the area is rather a maze of tracks.

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Sam and Wendy digging for topaz at Tourmaline Gully

We finished with him about midday – by which time it was pretty hot.

On the way back, we called in at Diggers Rest, the main establishment out there. They hire out digging equipment and sell topaz. The owner has sold up and is going back to Cairns. He lent us a sieve. He has lots of fairly tame birds at the place, which is a bit of an oasis. He showed us the bower of a bowerbird that lives in the garden – most intricate and attractive, with an entry “pathway” of white stones. Apparently, every so often the bird finds some topaz and puts it there, so the owner exchanges that for a different white stone! We noted that there were oddments of other coloured things, discarded beside the bower. Some trial and error perhaps? There were also apostle birds around, out there.

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The bower of the Great Bower Bird at Diggers Rest

Back in the township, we bought a fossicker’s  licence, for $7.50 a month, for both of us. That will allow us to go looking for topaz, on our own, out there.

Fuelled up Truck – 76cpl. The price is dearer inland!

We went for a lovely long swim.

There were several people from the Savannahlander train, now on its return journey to Cairns, overnighting here, in the new cabins. They went over to the hotel for a counter tea. This is the first time this has happened – people usually stay at the hotel – and we hope this is the start of some extra business for Jo and Joe, whose enterprise we admire. I think the Savannahlander would be an interesting little trip for people to do; it certainly covers a range of dramatic country.

Tea was sweet and sour fish. I used a recipe for sweet and sour chicken to get the sauce and it was excellent.