This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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1999 Travels September 6

MONDAY 6 SEPTEMBER   MT IVE STATION

Today was a pleasant one, not too hot, with some cloud and some sunshine.

We obtained a mud map of station tracks, when we booked in yesterday.

Were able to top up our fuel with 20 litres here – 86cpl.

Our first destination today was Kath’s Castle – a columnar rhyolite rock formation – which means pillar like shapes. The track was narrow, but not too rough. From its end, we walked up a small, dry, creek bed to reach the wall-like formation.

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Kath’s Castle

We then climbed the hill beside Kath’s Castle, to see what the view from the top was like. The walk was longer than we’d anticipated, as the skyline was further than it looked!

Along the way, disturbed a number of wallabies and euros or kangaroos – I still can’t tell the difference, much of the time. We saw where they make circular “nests” in the spinifex that was prevalent through here.

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The nest of a wallaby or euro in the spinifex

The view from the ridge was worth the effort. There were good views over the distant Lake Gairdner.

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The outlook from the ridge behind Kath’s Castle

Clambered back down to Truck and drove on to Lake Gairdner. This was so surprising and so brilliant that we had some difficulty taking in what we’d come across, by a chance reading of a snippet in a magazine.

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Lake Gairdner

Lake Gairdner is a huge, brilliant white, dry, salt lake. On a map, it looks nearly as big as Lake Eyre, and is, in fact, Australia’s third largest salt lake. Yet we had never before heard of it! It is really beautiful and certainly should be better known.

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Looking north – Lake Gairdner receding into the distance

With its red shores, and low hills surrounding it distantly, and the really white surface, it is much more scenic than Lake Eyre.

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The contrasts of Lake Gairdner

We sat and ate lunch, just taking in the outlook over the Lake – in all directions.

When the sun came out from behind clouds, interesting light effects were created on the salt surface of the Lake.

09-06-1999 06 on Lake Gairdner looking nth

Sun shining through a hole in the cloud, onto the Lake surface

We spent some time on the Lake – walking on it and taking photos. The salt crust is about a metre thick, though in places some underlying red earth outcrops through the salt in some more shallow sections.

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This lake is vast….

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Salt grains encrusting an outcrop of red earth, on the lake

The sand grains are coarse and the patterns they make are interesting in themselves.

It was an absolutely fascinating, impressive place that will remain a highlight of our travels.

09-06-1999 11 Lake Gairdner John in distance

The dot out on the Lake is John walking

Our final destination for the day was an old rock wall dam, built across a little creek valley by the early pastoralists. It showed great craftsmanship in the stone wall construction, worthy of somewhere more significant than this old sheep property.

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Dam wall on Mt Ive Station

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John inspecting the workmanship of the dam wall

We walked up the dry creek valley for some distance and saw numbers of wallabies, euros and a small herd of goats. It was, therefore, a very smelly creek bed!

09-06-1999 dam valley

Dry valley behind the dam wall – with goats

We drove a total of 81kms today, on station tracks that were fairly slow going and sometimes rather rough and stony.

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Water from underground – windmill, tanks and drinking trough, with kangaroos drinking

Tea was soup, BBQ steak, baked potatoes and vegies.

What a full day we had! What a wonderful place we stumbled upon!

09-06-1999 19 gawler range wildflowers


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1999 Travels September 5

SUNDAY 5 SEPTEMBER   WOOMERA TO MT IVE STATION  419kms

Today was much less windy, and also cooler.

We left Woomera about 9.15am, after getting fuel – 80cpl.

We had to retrace our route of a couple of days ago, back north up the Stuart Highway, for the 115kms to Glendambo, which was a bit tedious. We noticed puddles of water beside the road, where there had been none of Friday.

Topped up the fuel at Glendambo – 89cpl. That says something about the nature of roadhouses on main highways!

Then we were on to new ground again, heading west to Kingoonya, through rather flat and dull country. The road was a reasonable gravel surface. Just before Kingoonya, we merged with the main Perth and Alice Springs railway and had to cross it before we got into the township. This is a battling little place, once a centre for local farming and for railway workers, but the latter were relocated and the place is heading to be a ghost town. There was no reason for us to stop there – it has no fuel supplies.

We took the dirt road south, and the country almost immediately became more interesting, with some hills. At first, these were mostly low dunes, but further on became rocky hills. We passed a number of salinas – salt lakes and salt pans. The way took us between the large salt lakes of Lakes Harry and Everard, to our west, and the large Lake Gairdner to the east, but we did not see much of these.

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Dry Lake Everard, beside the road from Kingoonya

It was – rather surprisingly – sheep country, and we passed lots of those. There were structures that we thought were shelter sheds for the sheep, at drinking tanks – later, I read that these were roofs to collect water and funnel it into these tanks.

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Pastoral relics near Kangaroo Well

The vegetation varied a lot, between the sandy and rocky sections, and with a lot of blue bush.

We did not see any other traffic, south of Kingoonya, so our drive felt very remote.

We stopped to have lunch beside the track, south of Kokatha Homestead. Even homesteads are scarce on this route – we passed by three. While we were eating, I had a bit of a wander around, and gathered some dried kernels from a bush that had red fruit. The kernels have a pitted surface, and could make unusual jewellery. Later, I found out that these were the seeds of the quandong, or native peach.

This was quite an interesting drive, overall. The roads stayed reasonable.

There were occasional spots of rain, and quite a lot of cloud.

We reached Mt Ive about 5pm. The homestead is at the northern edge of the Gawler Ranges, which trend NW to SE through this area. The Ranges were discovered by Eyre, in his explorations westwards, and named for the then Governor of SA.

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Entering Mt Ive

Mt Ive is also at the southern edge of Lake Gairdner. It has been a sheep grazing property for over a hundred years. The homestead looks old, and we thought the place, overall, looked rather untidy.  It cost us $15 a night to camp, with power, flush toilets and warm showers. We booked in for two nights.

There was not much choice about where to set up, as there was only one power pole. So we parked in a bay delineated by rows of old tyres – not very scenic!

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Our camp site at Mt Ive

There is a real conglomeration of buildings here – some old stone ones, but also a big building brought from Maralinga (the former settlement at the atomic testing range in the desert). I made a joke to the lady who booked us in, about radioactivity, only to be told that it did register some!

Power is from the homestead’s generator, which provides “background noise” to the camp.

The van’s contents had been a bit shaken up by the rougher roads, and there was a very fine film of dust on the surfaces. Just needed a quick dust and sweep. The scupper vent does a pretty good job of keeping dust levels inside right down.

The freezebox door had come off in the fridge; the meats in there were still frozen, though. John fixed the door. He did the radio sched to Adelaide base.

Tea was tinned soup, a packet pasta with its own sauce, and salad. Quick and easy.

We have decided to explore some of the private station tracks tomorrow.

It was a chilly night.

09-05-1999 to mt ive

Our route to Mt Ive