This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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2007 Travels May 17

THURSDAY 17 MAY   COPLEY TO MARREE   115kms

There was not far to go today, so we took it in a very leisurely way. Took our time packing up and didn’t pressure M to hurry getting her tent and all packed up.

Only a few kms north of Copley was the open cut Leigh Creek coal mine – the reason for the existence of the Leigh Creek township.

Open cut coal mine Leigh Creek

We had a bit of a browse about, at the lookout over the open cut mine. Some of the old machinery there was of interest, if only because of its sheer scale. The old digging machine dwarfed Truck and van.  We took some photos to show the grandkids later, thinking they would be impressed by the size contrasts.

A tyre that was on display had set a world record for the time, racking up almost 300,000kms. And we think we’re doing well if we get a quarter of that on our Truck tyres!

The mine was a very massive hole in the ground. The coal mined here went by train to Port Augusta, to the power generation station there.

The village of Lyndhurst was the next point of note on our way north, really only because it is the southern end of the Strezelecki Track, to Innamincka. Signs indicated it was still closed.

So, on to Marree, a rather desolate little township. On the outskirts, signs showed the Birdsville Track was open only to lighter 4WD vehicles, so, clearly it too had been affected by the recent rains.

We booked into the Drovers Rest Caravan Park, which had the advantage of being a good distance away from the township centre i.e. the pub and associated noise. This park was set up by the former boss drover, Eric Oldfield, who spent much of his life droving cattle on the Birdsville Track. We had stayed here before.

Marree in the background

Our powered site cost $20. We found slightly shaded sites to set up on;  gravel surface of course. The amenities were still the very basic Atco donga ones, with their strange arrangement of showers of dubious privacy. There was a sort of arrangement of shower curtains, but it was best to try for a shower when no one else was in the building!

Only needed a basic camp set up here, so that did not take long. We had a quick lunch.

Walked into the centre of the township. Marree was quite sprawling – quite a lot of space between buildings and features.

We made for the old railway station, which dated from when the original Alice Springs – Ghan – railway, passed through this town. Like Beltana, it lost out when the railway was moved west. Marree was also a railhead for the movement of cattle from the north, which were walked down the Birdsville Track. Here, they were loaded onto trains and taken to the southern markets.

There was old railway memorabilia – you couldn’t really call it “on display”. It was just there. One could but hope that sometime soon, some effort would be made to mount a proper display. It could be really interesting.

Tom Kruse, the famous Birdsville Mailman, took mail and supplies up the Birdsville Track, from the 1930’s to the mid-60’s. Each of his mail runs took two weeks, covering really challenging terrain in often difficult conditions. He was a really important person to the isolated cattle stations along the track from here to Birdsville. One of the trucks he used was on display here.

It was a pleasant walk to the township, and back.

Road reports had the Painted Desert Road – out of Oodnadatta, which we hoped to take – still closed. Could but hope that, over the next few days, it dried out and was reopened.

Drovers Rest Caravan Park, Marree

The night was really chilly. There was still some lightning to the south east. It was definitely a night for the woolly bedsocks!

I played computer mahjong until 1am – addictive game – then slept very well.


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1999 Travels May 22

SATURDAY 22 MAY     COPLEY

Today was warm, but with much cloud cover.

I booked us in here for another two nights.

John slept in a little. After breakfast, he went to the local garage, who do tyres as well as serve fuel. They patched the tyre and put in a new tube, but it is basically dead, so is now the spare on the van, and we will need to buy a new tyre in Alice Springs. They have no tyres of that type here, and if we ordered one it would take at least until the middle of next week to come, so we will not wait. We had experience of waiting for ordered parts to come from Adelaide, in 1993, when we broke the Hilux axle at Port Augusta, and it was the most frustrating experience that took twice as long as promised!

The tyre work cost us $42. I kept the pointed piece of rock that was extracted from the tyre, and later wrote the cost of the new tyre on it, and kept it as a souvenir with a difference.

After lunch, we went on the tour of the coal mine, which I had phoned and booked this morning. This is put on by the mining company, at no cost. We drove to Leigh Creek, to the pickup point, where we were loaded into a mini bus and driven around to various points of interest.

It was interesting to be able to look up close at the operations, but the guide – a contract truck driver – was hopeless! There was no system to her commentary and much of it was inaudible.

05-22-1999 02 overburden hauler.jpg

Haul truck – you  would not argue with one of these!

The open cuts are so huge. And so deep. The haul trucks that cart the coal to where it is loaded onto the train, are so enormous. Just their wheels are huge – I took a photo of John standing by one, and he only came up to the axle mid point. The guide showed us the repair shop. A haul truck with a burst tyre was there – the tyres cost $20,000 each! It rather puts the cost of our dead tyre into a different light.

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The size of a haul truck compared to John

05-22-1999 06 $20,000 flat

A $20,000 flat tyre!

At one point, from the bus, we saw a bulldozer working on a slope that must have been at least 50 degrees. I didn’t  know they could even do that!

05-22-1999 04 Leigh Ck coalfield brave dozer.jpg

The driver of this bulldozer must have nerves of steel!

Men building the railway north in the 1880’s, originally found coal here; it was mined occasionally from that time, but only really got going with open cut mining after WW2, in the 1950’s to supply the new power stations at Port Augusta. The original Leigh Creek town was where there is now a very large hole. The current town was established in the early 1980’s, so the old one could be closed and make way for the expansion of the open cut.

05-22-1999 01 open cut Leigh Creek.jpg

The current open cut coal mine. Its scale dwarfs the haul truck on the top road.

After the mine tour bus dropped us off back at Truck, we drove out to the Aroona Dam, just south of Leigh Creek. We just had a quick look and did not explore the camping area that is supposed to be downstream of the dam wall. John was not really inclined to look around. It did not look attractive enough for us to wish we were out here instead of in Copley village – quite the reverse, actually.

Back at the van, John cut up the ruined tube to make padding for better packing the axe and shovel on the roof rack.

We did a quick walk before dinner, around the township, amid a few rain spatters.

Tea was fish and French fries.

In the evening, I sewed, while John listened to the football on the radio. He worked on the computer, to bring the finance records up to date.

Again, it tried to rain occasionally, through the night.