SUNDAY 28 JUNE      COOKTOWN

We had a very slow start to the day. My lower back was sore, from yesterday’s mishap, so I took a couple of the Brufen pills that I carry for this eventuality.

Drove down town to the newsagent, for a paper. Drove past the bowls club – naturally – where John checked out a sign that gave the details of their playing times. One of these was Sunday afternoon at 1pm, so he decreed that we would bowl – despite my sore back!

Then drove up Grassy Hill, to the lookout on top. We were absolutely amazed – there was the most incredible panorama over the town and the Endeavour River. This would have to be one of the best views in Australia! The river is a big one, and winds off in the distance towards ranges.

We are conscious that, in a short while, if things work out, we will be heading into those ranges.

The town’s buildings cluster beneath the hill, between it and the river. There were lots of boats moored in the river.

There was a strangely shaped cloud hanging over Mt Cook, behind us, looking for all the world like a flying saucer! The film “Independence Day” came to mind.

There is much Cook memorabilia around the town, for obvious reasons. It was in the Endeavour River, here in 1770, that Captain Cook beached his damaged Endeavour ship, for repairs after it was damaged on a reef further south. One can see how the Endeavour River provided him with such a great, sheltered place to carry out his ship repairs. However, it does not answer one question that bothers historians: did he just get lucky when he continued on north, apparently into unknown waters, after the Endeavour was holed – or did he know from a secret Portuguese map made by de Medonca in 1522, that there was this ideal careening place ahead?

The historian in me looked down from Grassy Hill and tried to imagine the encampment of British sailors, down beside the river.

Back to the tent, for a rushed lunch, so we could get to the bowls club by 1pm. There was no one else there, thus it was deduced, no bowls. Can’t say I was disappointed.

Left Truck at the bowls club and walked along the river foreshore area – the harbour, I guess. There were boats there advertising charters, both out to sea for fishing, and up the river sightseeing. There were also some rather decrepit looking boats and some rather rough looking people. It crosses my mind that, if one does not want to be found, Cooktown is probably a pretty good place to hide away – and life on an old boat would be cheap.

We followed the waterside road around as far as the old Powder Magazine (explosives store), on the northern base of Grassy Hill. This dates from the 1870’s, when there were explosives being brought in for use on the Palmer River goldfields, and there was need for safe storage of same. It is being restored.

As we walked, looked at houses perched up on the slopes above the river, saying what unsurpassed views they had, looking north along the coast, or west up the river towards the ranges. Reckon I could live with those, though one might feel a tad exposed in a cyclone?

Walked back to where Truck was parked by the bowls club, then drove to the supermarket, in the main street, for a few groceries and – principally – half a dozen cans of cold beer. The weather is making this seem like a desirable drink!

Back to camp. About 4pm, with a roar like an express train, which really startled us, the wind arrived! It blew strongly into the night. This was happening when we arrived yesterday, too, and we started to wonder if it was a daily event. It was really loud through the big paperbarks around us.

Despite the wind, John went fishing, just on dark, down at the Esplanade area. No joy.

Tea was squid in a lime/chilli ginger sauce, with rice.

The knee that I landed on when I tripped yesterday is swollen and sore, as well as my back. The latter is really stiffening up, making movement uncomfortable. I need to think before making any move! I am really cross that I have done this, and can’t help thinking about Tasmania in 1993, when back landed me in hospital. I couldn’t bear it, if this stuffs up this part of our trip!