This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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1998 Travels October 20

TUESDAY 20 OCTOBER   MOUNT SURPRISE TO FORSAYTH   141kms

Pretty standard pack up. It has become quite routine. We did not put the weight distribution bars on, because we were going to be on an uneven dirt road, from Georgetown to Forsayth.

It was a hot drive to Forsayth, but at least the country side was not boring. We have not had the van on unsealed roads, to date, so this is the start of practice on same, for John. He did well, except that he went through one floodway a bit fast and bounced the van more than was good. It shook the cupboard contents up more than usual, and the front part of the hinged glass top on the stove came off and fell on the floor. It did not break, but put a little dent in the vinyl floor. Everything else was alright.

The Forsayth Home Stay and Van Park cost us $11 for a powered site. We set up under the big shadecloth roof provided for the site – a good idea and much needed.

The town water supply is not potable – it has heavy metals/arsenic in it. There is a rain water tank provided for park patrons. I suppose that means one should keep their mouth shut when showering!

The Home Stay and Van Park is for sale. The home stay can accommodate up to 20, they say, in six rooms! They often have 12 staying. They have just begun developing the van park part – it seems to have some potential – and they also have the next door block. But it seems to us that tourist business here is dependent on the Savannah Lander rail passengers, and tourists who want to visit nearby Cobbold Gorge, which is now developing its own camp ground. Forsayth is off any main tourist route – though it may become more attractive if the road from Georgetown was sealed.

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The outlook from the caravan park at Forsayth

We had a late lunch.

The afternoon became really hot and then quite hazy – there are fires around, apparently.

As it got slightly cooler in the late afternoon, we walked into what seemed to be more the centre of the township. I thought Mt Surprise was rather a rustic village but this is more so. There are no shops! It has a pub. The Post Office is in a house. But there is a little hospital, and of course, the train station. There is a strange assortment of houses, rather spread about, including a couple of interesting older ones.

The town has First to Ninth Avenues, straggling off into the dead grass. This scale is a relic of the grander mining days – initially gold in the 1870’s, and then copper, from the 1890’s. Apparently the original settlement was on the other side of the little Delaney River that is by the town, but was moved when the railway reached here in the early 1900’s.

At one stage, it was planned that the railway would go further west and link up with what is now the Gulflander Railway, that ends at Croydon, but that never happened. Because of being the rail terminus, Forsayth continued its existence as the rail head for transport further west. Eventually, of course, road transport and travel bypassed it.

About 100 people live here now, though with the renewed growth of mining in the area over the last decade or so, it may grow a bit more.

There seemed to be a lot of barking dogs about – a rather motley lot. We saw a big flock of red-tailed cockatoos in trees and on power lines. There are lots of birds at the van park, including a very musical butcher bird.

We drove out to Castle Rock, following a mud map given to us by Nellie, the owner. There were some others driving out that way, too, to see the sunset from that vantage point.

The sunset was “different”, due to lots of smoke about. Very red. It was worth the drive and the little scramble to the top. We drove past a newly burning area on the way to the Rock.

The heat had reduced both our appetites, so I made some salad for John; I had some tinned apricots and he had watermelon that we’d bought in Georgetown, when we stopped at a store to buy a couple of cold drinks.

There is some TV here – we get two channels, which is one more than in Mt Surprise!

We had the air con on during tea and that cooled the van sufficiently for sleep, but we had a rather restless night as it stayed hot throughout. Unfortunately, the air con is far too noisy inside the van to keep it on after bedtime.

10-20-1998 mt surprise to forsayth JPG.JPG


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1998 Travels October 16

FRIDAY 16 OCTOBER     MOUNT SURPRISE

On Joe’s advice – again – we were going to Einasleigh today. I packed some Ryvita, vegemite and cheese for a picnic lunch. Joe told us that the unsealed road that goes to Einasleigh from  west of Mt Surprise, was worth taking.

It was a very attractive drive, in parts parallel with the rugged Newcastle Range. There were several dry creek fords. It was more of a track than a road and not one for fast travel. We did not meet any other traffic on this route. At one point, we intersected with the railway line that carries the Savannahlander train – it goes through Einasleigh on the way to Forsayth. It was about 90kms to Einasleigh.

As we drove, could see storm clouds building to the south and hoped there would not be sudden heavy rain while we were on this road!

Einasleigh was really interesting. The Copperfield River goes through a small gorge, where it has cut a down a fissure in the basalt that formed from a lava flow. These parts of northern Queensland are much more volcanic than I knew. The basalt here is very dark and the Copperfield Gorge looks quite sinister to me.

 

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Copperfield Gorge with the rail bridge in the background

As is indicated by the name Copperfield River, the town grew due to copper mining here in the late 1800’s; there was also copper mining around Forsayth to the west. Clearly, there is much mineralization in these parts – was some tin mining around O’Briens Creek, there’s the topaz, aquamarine and similar gemstones now; copper; the large Kidston gold mine is east of here. The Einasleigh River – named by the Jardines on their trek north to the Cape in the 1860’s – and the Copperfield join at the township.

The railway was built by the Chillagoe Copper Company to transport copper from around Forsayth and here. It eventually became government owned. There is a long rail bridge over the Einasleigh River. It would look quite spectacular in a flood.

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The rail line and bridge at Einasleigh

The road we came in on crosses the river via a ford that would flood after big rains.

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The road crossing of the Einasleigh River at the town

The “town” itself was quite surreal – probably not helped by the dark, stormy skies. It is in a great setting amongst photogenic hills. There was an eerie, derelict house just across the bridge.

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Stephen King comes to Einasleigh!

The hotel stands by itself, with a collapsed building next to it that was once the dance hall, or “leaning hall”. It leaned too far! The walls have collapsed but the roof is intact, complete with fascia, on the ground. There was only one vehicle parked in front of the hotel – with its bonnet up.

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Einasleigh central: the hotel and the collapsed leaning hall on this side of it

We ate our lunch in a modern picnic shelter overlooking the Gorge. The huge, swirling clouds were making thunder and lightning and then we had a heavy but short deluge. While having lunch, we were adopted by a very scared blue heeler dog that obviously thought we were its saviours from the elements.

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Welcome shelter for lunch in the rain

Eventually, we took refuge at the pub, complete with dog, who wasn’t going to be left. The two people at the pub (publican and one patron) knew who she was and undertook to return her home.

The beer was in a large chest freezer, behind the bar. There was none on tap. We had a beer each, as a courtesy for the help with the dog. $3 per can. Being independent tourists in Einasleigh seemed to make us some kind of objects of curiosity.

We walked around a bit – the land of the township is rather bare, and rocky, almost blasted-looking.  We decided that being here was very like living inside the pages of a Stephen King novel!

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Copperfield River and rail bridge – and dark stormy skies threatening

The rainstorm moved off to the north – making us somewhat concerned about our camp! We decided not to risk the narrow, dirt road back to Mt Surprise, with its creek crossings, so kept going west, to Forsayth, on a sealed road. This part of our drive was very scenic, with rugged ranges and distant vistas.

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A scary road sign, between Einasleigh and Forsayth

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Distant ranges seen from the Forsayth road

Had a quick look round Forsayth, with a view to maybe staying there. The van facility at the Forsayth home stay looked adequate.

Turned north for Georgetown – back onto gravel road, rather corrugated in parts. Georgetown had a few shops and a huge, dry river crossing – the Etheridge.

It was back onto the single width bitumen to Mt Surprise. We saw a bustard walking beside the road – and another as road kill. Scenes like that make me so sad – not something I will ever get used to.

Back at the van, the storm had obviously passed this way. The annexe roof had been blown off its poles – probably due to the shade cloth hanging from them too. There was red mud everywhere. The van was mostly dry inside. Given the hot weather this morning, I had not shut up all the windows before we left. There had been a little rain come in the window at the head of the bed, and some of my underwear in the cupboard beneath it was damp. Lesson: do not go out in storm season and leave windows open! We were lucky, this time – it was quite a storm and a lot of rain was dumped in a short time.

The storm certainly cooled the air, which made for a pleasant late afternoon and evening.

Tea was dim sims that I “steamed” in an enamel pie plate in the electric frypan with water in and lid on – and fries.

We drove 296kms on today’s circuit. A great day.

John sat up till the early hours playing computer game.