This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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2015 Travels August 3

OUR PATHS CROSS AGAIN      August 3

Whilst John was browsing the main stall in the inside building at Opal Fest, he spied two familiar faces at one stall. He waited until they had no customers, then approached and asked if they were still mining at Opalton and if they remembered him – from about five years back? They said he seemed familiar, and they chatted for a while.

John’s sense of time passing is not the greatest. It was actually fifteen years ago that we had encountered these two. Guess time flies when you are living an interesting life!

Back in 2000, when we were still travelling full time, heading NW in Qld, we fetched up in Winton. On an exploring drive, came across Opalton, some 120kms of dirt road to the south. About a hundred years before, it had been the humming centre of a big opal rush. When interest in opal waned, in the twentieth century, Opalton became almost a ghost settlement. What buildings there had been crumbled away.

Opalton historic area

But in recent times, there had been a resurgence of interest in mining the distinctive boulder opal that is found in the area. The section of the old diggings where there were lots of mullock heaps, was declared a fossicking area – only to be explored with hand tools. The old shafts in there had filled with water.

When we came across Opalton, there was a store of sorts, called The Outpost, a telephone box, and a rough camping area by the mullock heaps, being caretaken by an elderly pair of fossickers. We loved the area and the atmosphere of the camp and so decided to move the van out there for a week or two.

Opalton Bush Camp

In preparation, John, who had seen a dam and creek in the area, was in the Winton butchers. When he asked if the butcher had any scraps he could use for yabby bait, another customer – a rather glamorous lady – asked where he was going yabbying. He replied “Opalton”. She told him that she and her partner had a claim out that way, at Debbil Debbil. John arranged with her to visit them at the claim while they were camped out there, and that visit duly happened.

Open cut opal mining at Debbil Debbil

We spent a great afternoon with L and J, at their camp and claim. Watched how they were open cut mining, and learned to use a wire to divine for fault lines in the rock, with which opal was often associated. At their camp, saw a huge piece of boulder opal that the miner who shared their camp had found that afternoon – worth upwards of $35,000, he thought.

Divining for faults

That was only the second season on the claim for L and J. They hadn’t done any mining to speak of, before coming out here. The season extended over the cooler months. In summer, it was too hot and water was too limited so they retreated back to their home on the coast.

To date, they had not found any opal, but were hopeful still, We thought it was damned hard work for no return.

A year or two later, we heard that they were still digging at Debbil Debbil, but still had not found opal. Occasionally after that, we wondered what had become of them.

The semi-arid country around Opalton

Here they were! With a great stall, selling Queensland boulder opal, much of which they had mined themselves. There was also some very nice jewellery featuring same, which they designed and had made up for them. As with the best opal jewellery in Lightning Ridge, the stone was cut to bring out its best, then the setting designed for just that stone.

They told us that they still had some claims in the Opalton area, which they would dig at some future date, but were currently mining some 100kms west of Winton, off the Boulia road. They still spent only the winter months at their claims, then took their finds back to their Gold Coast base, where they cut and rubbed them and did the jewellery design, plus attending markets all over the place.

The boulder opal stall of our friends. Unusual boulder opal occurrence in rock

They were set up at a caravan park in town that had seemed convenient for the Fest, but were not happy there. They did not like it that some locals – non-campers – kept coming in, wandering around, using the amenities, leaving a mess, then begging users of the laundry for money to wash their clothes.

After they had packed up, on the Sunday afternoon, they came out to visit us at our park, and then immediately booked themselves into a site here for next year’s Opal Fest time.

We spent several hours over afternoon tea that turned into Happy Hour, over drinks and nibbles. L and J relaxed after the long hours spent at the stall. They were happy with the event, obviously, since they planned to return in 2016. It was a brief respite for them as they had to leave early the next morning to go back to the Gold Coast for a big opal Expo there.

The Queensland boulder opal is quite different from the classic opal of places like Lightning Ridge and Coober Pedy. Here, the best opal is found in seams that are thick enough for solid opal to be cut and shaped. The Queensland boulder opal colour occurs in ironstone and can’t really be separated from it. The best boulder opal stones have the opal surface on top of the sandstone base, but other stones just have the opal flashes in the ironstone – small flashes of absolutely brilliant colour, in amongst the brown of the parent rock. There can be wonderful variety of colours, too, in boulder opal. In many ways, I prefer it to the usual opal.

Boulder opal ring

L and J have a website that features their boulder opals at: boulderopalsaustralia.com  This tells their story, gives information about opal, and features some of their product.

It was great to see these two again – and to know that their efforts and patience finally were rewarded.


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2000 Travels May 23

TUESDAY 23 MAY     WINTON

We got up at a respectable hour, and after breakfast, drove across the road to the Caltex fuel depot, to top up Truck. Diesel was 83cpl here. The man said he was getting low on diesel, and waiting on the tanker to be able to come down the road from Hughenden – currently closed due to recent rains.

We left about 10.30, to head south to Opalton. Took the Jundah Road, initially, for 15kms, then turned onto the unsealed Opalton road. This skirted the edge of the Bladensburg National Park, on my list of places to visit, here. Its low jump ups – or flat topped hills – looked interesting.

After Bladensburg we were into flat grasslands, but with enough trees and scrubland to keep it interesting. There were good fat cattle about, and some sheep. Roos and emus were also plentiful.

We saw a flock of cockatiels and a number of black faced wood swallows.

It was not too hard to find our way, despite the lack of signs. The man at the gem shop had given us useful information about that.

We got to Opalton about midday, and went to the bush store – the Opalton Outpost – that the shop man had told us about. As this was one of the few structures about the place, it was pretty obvious. It was very rough – a sort of pole construction with brush roofing and lots of gaps to the open air. The shelf stock was very sparse, dust covered, and – I suspected – very out of date. Several chooks wandered in and out and one of their kind – stuffed – had pride of place on a shelf. I had a feeling that the poultry might roost on the shelves at night!

A rather scruffy looking guy – L – was looking after the store. He showed us a piece of the boulder opal that they find in these parts. It was really pretty, perhaps resembling the cooked matrix opal we’d seen at Andamooka last year, but with lots more fire and large patches of colour. L directed us to go to the bush camp area – it surprised us that this existed – where, he said, 76 year old M would tell us all about it and show us what to do to fossick.

05-23-2000 boulder opal

05-23-2000 opal

Boulder opal

M was lovely – very talkative. She had a huge blue, rough surfaced sapphire on a chain round her neck. She found it near Sapphire a couple of years ago.

After we’d eaten our packed lunch, M took us out noodling on the mullock heaps of the old mine pits. There was a large area, just behind the bush camp area, that had been mined about a hundred years ago. The miners dug shafts and the mullock heaps were piled up around these. M explained that often they were seeking large and spectacular pieces of opal and didn’t bother with small bits. So it was remarkably easy to find little pieces on the heaps, or rocks that might have opal in.

The opal fields here were developed from the 1880’s. At one stage there were about 600 people on the field, with the attendant small town that grew up to meet their needs. Life was tough, with lack of water being an issue, though, ironically, ground water filling into the shafts was a big problem. A bigger problem was the decline in the demand for opal in the early 1900’s, that affected all the then existing opal fields in Australia. Some say that the diamond mining companies of South Africa felt that their product was so threatened by opal that they managed to circulate the idea that opal was unlucky – this persisted for decades.

So opal mining, and Opalton, declined and the place was virtually abandoned by the 1920’s, and crumbled away. However, a revival in recent times has seen miners using machines take up claims in the area. The central part of old Opalton was designated as a fossicking area and thus protected from machine mining. All very interesting and nothing we’d known about, previously.

John had already decided, before we went noodling with M, that he wanted to come out here with the van and stay at the bush camp for a while. I liked the place and the “away from it all” nature of it. So, we arranged with M to return here to camp.

M and her husband caretake the Bush Camp and stay here for several months over winter.

We inspected M’s gem trees, which she sells for $20. These were small tree shapes made from wire, with 42 small pieces of opal on the branches – all glued to a polished piece of rock. I found them quirky and very attractive, and selected one to be put aside for me to buy when we return here. I thought I might buy a second one as a Xmas present for P and K. There was some really good colour in the chips she uses.

05-23-2000 gem tree.JPG

The gem tree made from boulder opal pieces

We left Opalton at 4pm, after a much more interesting time than I had anticipated.

There were many kangaroos and emus to dodge on the drive back! We drove 261kms today.

Tea was leek and onion soup, steak for John and salad for me.

We had planned to have some bills from home – rates and the like – that would be due for payment, catch up with us at a town, soon. I suggested that we could phone and find out details and pay by phone – and that would solve that impediment to our going “out bush” for a while.

What is really noticeable at Winton is the number of vans that come in late in the day and leave again early next morning. They don’t know what they are missing in some of these outback towns.