THURSDAY 2 JULY      COOKTOWN

Today was warm and dry.

After much agonizing, this week, about the dilemma of the eggs left in the caravan pantry, today we set out to drive back to the van at Wonga, via the Bloomfield Track. This route is shorter – about half the distance – than the inland route. We had intended to come back this way, after the Cape trip; this is just an earlier experience of it! We will see the Track from both perspectives – coming and going.

We left Cooktown at 9am. Once we turned onto the unsealed road and passed the Lions Den Hotel, we were on new ground. And soon into the scrub and forest country for a while. Then we descended to the Bloomfield River and the tiny Ayton settlement. Just on from that, by the Wujal Wujal community, crossed the Bloomfield River on the dry causeway. This used to be a problem point on the Track, crossing the tidal stretch of the river, but with the causeway it is not an issue in the Dry. Then it was back into forest country and the Bloomfield Track proper.

Whilst there was an access road from the north, to Ayton and Wujal Wujal – i.e. as far as the Bloomfield River, that was it, until the early 1980’s when local councils wanted to put a road from the south to the river – to aid tourism and development. Because of the pristine nature of the rainforest, north of Cape Tribulation, there was a major environmentalist protest about the road. It was put through, anyway, although to minimize disturbance of the environment, it did not wind about as much as would be normal on some of the steep gradients. To prevent development of the newly opened area, the environment movement managed to have it declared a World Heritage Area.

So – south of the causeway over the Bloomfield River, the road was narrow, often bendy, and with a couple of really steep gradients. The Cowie Range was really steep. One tricky section had concrete like blocks laid up it, to ensure traction and prevent the track being churned up or eroded.  It is regarded as 4WD, so tourists can’t bring hire cars up here – only 4WD’s.

When we arrived at the caravan park, T was surprised to see us – then amused! P – a fellow camper we had gotten to know a bit, came charging over to see what was wrong.

We spent all of about 15 minutes at the van! Returned John’s printer and paper, having decided that a million corrugations may not be healthy for it. Collected forgotten items – THE EGGS, the small radio, a camera battery.

Got diesel at Wonga Beach servo. 71cpl.

Then headed back across the ferry and up the Track. Rather a costly lot of eggs, all things considering.

We got back to Cooktown at 5.45pm. So, we actually had about eight hours of driving on the Track! It is a slow road.

My back now does seem to be improving, despite all the sitting in Truck today, and the jarring at times. John’s leg has been hurting a lot, due to the rough driving and innumerable gear changes the road demands. So I got to do some driving: Thornton Beach to Wonga on the way down – including onto the ferry! Then Wonga to the start of the 4WD stuff on the way back, then from Ayton to Cooktown.

I guess it is now “official” that we are going to try to complete the Cape trek.

It was still windy in Cooktown when we got back.

We bought fish and chips for tea.

It was a very tiring day.