This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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1999 Travels January 25

MONDAY 25 JANUARY     STANTHORPE

We woke to a grey, slightly chilly morning. Despite that, decided to stick to the plan we made yesterday – to go to Boonoo Boonoo National Park (pronounced bunna boo-noo).

To get there, took the Amosfield Road out of Stanthorpe, which took us across the border into NSW. It is nine months since we have been in NSW! Then followed the Mount Lindesay Road south – a fairly narrow back road. Took the signed road to the Falls – 14kms of unsealed road, not too bad.

Then we walked to the Falls – not far. They are very long, over a series of drops and then the water goes down into a gorge that is the upper Clarence River system. There was quite a bit of water coming over.

We then walked to a pool above the Falls – Top Pool. People swim there, but today’s weather made it not a tempting idea. It is pretty, amongst big granite boulders.

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The Top Pool at the Falls

Whilst walking alongside the creek, I disturbed an eel that was rock-hopping. I thought it was a snake, at first – got a big fright.

We ate our picnic lunch there, where there are a few fairly ordinary camp spots. Apparently, management plans may ban camping here, in favour of the Cypress camp area, which we passed on the way in.

Did some bird spotting here – found a dusky wood swallow, spotted pardalote, a crested baza hawk, and a plum headed finch.

On the way back out – retracing the same route – we took a short side track and visited Morgans Gully. It was worth the detour, with big rocks and pools in the creek. Unfortunately, the grey day meant no photos.

It was back on the Mount Lindesay Road for a short while, before taking the access road to Bald Rock National Park, also in NSW, but as the crow flies, not far from Girraween.

Bald Rock is the largest granite rock in Australia. Its top is about 1300 metres above sea level.

Unfortunately, it was 4.15 when we commenced the walk up Bald Rock – too late, really. We took the easier, 2.5km gradual track up to the top, a lovely walk that winds around, as opposed to going straight up the face of the rock. It may have been the easier track, but it was still hard work, going uphill.

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Towards the top of Bald Rock, with drifting cloud obscuring the outlook

Spotted a Pacific Baza hawk – our fourth new bird for the day.

There was cloud drifting over the Rock, so the light was poor for photos – and for seeing any distance! We did come through some interesting canyon and balanced rock formations on the way to the summit.

At the top, signed the Visitors Book. There were no views, due to the cloud.

John decided – partly in view of how late it was – that we would take the steep track back,  straight down the exposed rock face. I was rather reluctant, after the issues on The Pyramid the other day. It was getting on for 6pm and I was worried about maybe getting caught in the dark, if he couldn’t manage it and we had to backtrack.

In the event, it was much easier than on The Pyramid. Although steep, and testing on the knees and ankles, there were no exposed side drops, so we did it easily. It was much quicker. The loop walk as we did it, was 3.2kms.

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Looking back up towards the top of Bald Rock, after we’d come down the steep face

There was no one else in the car park by the time we got there – too late, too cloudy.

It was still daylight by the time we’d driven back to Stanthorpe – just. John stopped to hire a video, on the way through town. Drove 146kms today.

Tea was soup and toasted ham and cheese sandwiches.

We watched The Horse Whisperer. An excellent film, though there were a couple of holes in the story, if one knows horses. The dance scene was memorable.

I would really like to go back and walk Bald Rock in clear weather.


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1999 Travels January 24

SUNDAY 24 JANUARY      STANTHORPE

We got a fairly early start and went, briefly, to the markets next door – in the Showgrounds, before going to bowls. The markets were pretty tatty – more like a poor garage sale. We just looked and didn’t buy anything. There was not the fresh produce I’d hoped to find there.

Bowls was alright. The people were friendly. We played triples. John was skip, with another lady and me. We won quite well. John played an excellent game. I was a bit happier with my game than I’d been in Toowoomba.

The game was followed by several rounds of drinks, so we were a bit sleepy in the afternoon!

I began drying some pears I’d bought at a stall. They went brown – I need lots of lemon, or a syrup bath, which is too complex to do here. So, at this stage, that is a failed experiment.

John watched cricket on TV.

There was quite a cloud build up through the afternoon, then some heavy rain for a while.

Tea was soup, ham, potato and salad.


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1999 Travels January 23

SATURDAY 23 JANUARY      STANTHORPE

After breakfast, we went for a drive around the Pozieres/Amiens Roads areas, calling in at some farms with big packing sheds and signs of life, to see if there was work. There wasn’t. Some already have their full complement of workers; most say they are not starting for another couple of weeks.

Back at camp, chatted with the new people behind us. They do quite a bit of gemstone fossicking, and have been to Rubyvale and O’Briens Creek. The man gave us a handful of garnets someone had given him, that came from up Cloncurry way. There may even be the odd cutter amongst them. They are nice people.

After lunch, John went to bowls.

I read the Saturday papers. Did some knitting, finishing off three of the little jumpers and jackets that had needed sewing up and bands done. Quite often, I like to knit as we are driving distances – it helps me stay awake! There is no point in making things for John and me – we have ample clothing. So I decided that baby and young children’s items were manageable, not needing too much wool – and can be stored away for if there are grandchildren, further down the track. I now have four such items completed.

John returned happy with his bowling. He wants us to play in the morning!

Tea was soup, the leftover ham and cheese bake, which was alright cold. The fresh nectarines are wonderful.

We have decided to extend our stay here for a few extra days, to see if any work eventuates, and also because there are still places we want to see – well, I want to see.


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1999 Travels January 22

FRIDAY 22 JANUARY       STANTHORPE

After breakfast, we went to the shops for a paper, to the chemist for my script, the bank to get some cash, Woolworths for some groceries.

After lunch, we went and practiced bowls for nearly three hours, which made John happy.

Friends of the people behind us have arrived, and set up their camper trailer directly behind us. Our neighbour is going to give us a list of fruit people to go and see about work. I am still not keen on the idea!

Tea was a ham and cheese bake, followed by fresh nectarines.


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1999 Travels January 21

THURSDAY 21 JANUARY     STANTHORPE

It began to rain during the night – light, but steady. Later in the morning, it eased off, then stopped.

I went to the doctor at midday, got the required script and took it to the chemist to be filled – they have to get it in. It is a good thing we are not moving on soon.

After lunch, went for a drive to have a look at nearby Girraween National Park. Access to the key features of this park is much easier – on sealed roads. But we had to go south to Ballandean again, and a short distance south of there, turned east and on into the National Park. From Ballandean and south, could see a low range in the distance. There were lots of semis on the highway, until we turned off.

It was a pleasant 6km drive from the highway, through a narrowing valley, to the Parks Office, and the parking area, in a fairly open area. Girraween National Park is based around  huge outcroppings of granite and associated loose boulders.

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The granite dome of The Pyramid in Girraween National Park

I got a map at the Parks Office, which had a sizeable lizard of some sort, roaming around the floor, eating dead flies!

We decided to tackle the Pyramid walk. It started through pleasant country rather reminiscent of the Grampians. Crossed Bald Rock Creek, which was really pretty, not far from the start of the walk. We could see The Pyramid in the distance.

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The walking track crosses Bald Rock Creek

The track took us steadily uphill, with lots of sets of rock steps. Then we reached the base of The Pyramid – a granite slab that rises steeply, but is broken here and there by little gullies with trees in. It was most photogenic.

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The very photogenic Pyramid walk

The bare granite surface was really steep climbing. We followed white paint dots on the rock, which showed the advisable route to take to reach the top.

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That is the way we go – up!

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Following the white dots upwards

We were not all that far from the top when got John vertigo and couldn’t go any further. At the time, we were on a very exposed and seemingly steeply falling slope, near a little balancing rock that sat on the slope. It was very similar to the situation that defeated John when we tried to climb Ayers Rock in 1993 – a steep drop off. It is rather ironic, because I was managing the climb quite well, yet I’m the one who normally cannot manage heights at all. Again, a repeat of Ayers Rock.

 

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This is just about as far as John can go

John was not happy with himself, but I felt we were high enough to get good vistas, anyway, and I was rather concerned about his hip/leg on the steep return downhill. He managed that alright.

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The vista from The Pyramid, over the central valley at Girraween

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Going down again – very steep and nothing to hold onto

On the walk back, took the long way round, via the Granite Arch loop track.

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On the Granite Arch Loop Track

It was a great afternoon’s walking. I think we did about 5kms.

There are other walks at the Park that look enticing and the two camp areas seem attractive, and with hot showers! No power, though – and we do not have solar yet. Access with our van would be no problem. It is certainly not crowded, even at this time of year.

On the drive back, stopped at a roadside stall and bought a tray of nectarines.

We drove 90kms today.

Tea was soup, ham, coleslaw and mashed potato.


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1999 Travels January 20

WEDNESDAY 20 JANUARY     STANTHORPE

When I got up, there was some early morning cloud. As the day heated, it was burnt off and it turned into a pleasant day.

I discovered that my HRT script is out of date, so had to locate a doctor in the phone book and make an appointment – for tomorrow morning – to get a renewal. Must watch that date thing in the future, with scripts.

I finished the small blue tablecloth I’d been making, and later in the day spent some time pondering over how to lay out the prototype I will make, for a set of place mats for S. She has said she would be interested in having such a set and would pay for the materials. That is a nice, long, time consuming project. I plan to design and make a possible one and send it off to her for approval, before making the set.

I went briefly to the shops for a paper and some food items.

John went to bowls in the afternoon. He enjoyed it and won. I cleaned the van, read the paper, and sewed. I made some barley and vegetable soup.

I had quite a chat with the lady in the van behind us. She and husband have lived in their van for seven years. They follow a harvest circuit they have devised. They will pick for a full season of a product, or sometimes just for a month, then have 4-6 weeks off. They do the fruit here, then strawberries at Palmwoods, veggies in the Bowen area, then apples at Batlow. Finding out about the travelling lifestyles of others is really interesting.

Tea was some of the soup, ham, potato and coleslaw.

During the afternoon, there looked to be storm clouds looming up, but they did not develop into anything, at the time.


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1999 Travels January 19

TUESDAY 19 JANUARY     STANTHORPE

This morning, got ourselves organized for a day trip out into the Sundown National Park – to the northern section. Went south on the New England Highway. Refuelled at Severnlea – 63cpl. At Ballandean turned west.

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The Sundown Road became an unsealed road

The Sundown Road eventually turned into an unsealed track. We went through a sort of an entrance gate. The book I was using said this was a demanding 4WD track, and for once, we agree! It was very rocky and almost all either up or down. There were some pretty big rocks to go over or around, in places. The signage could be better, but maybe that is part of the challenge?

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The unsealed road turned into a rough track

We drove to Burrows Waterhole – 16kms from the entrance gate. It took us nearly two and a half hours to get there. We did not take any wrong turns, so we averaged under 8 kmh!

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The track to the Severn River can be seen disappearing into the distance

There was one other set of people at Burrows Waterhole – a young couple with two children, in a Disco. He had not done much 4WD-ing and was glad to see us, he said, because it meant someone would be coming behind him on the way out, if he came to grief! They had camped at the southern end of the park, so it was a long drive round to get here, and they felt that the effort of the track in had not been worth it.

We tended to agree. It was pretty enough, but basically just a river and waterhole. I guess it is wilderness, although the history of the area featured grazing and some mining, so it is hardly unspoiled. But it was an experience, going in there, I suppose.

We lunched at the Waterhole, by the Severn River.

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The Severn River and Burrows Waterhole

It was harder to find our way out again, as there were several tracks around the camp area, heading out. We took one that turned out to be going to Rats Castle and didn’t realize it until we’d gone down a nasty loose rock slope. It was tricky getting back up that slope again – John had the Truck in the wrong gear and we stalled and slid back a bit. But managed it, in low range and crawled back to the top.

Even back on the correct track a couple of the other slopes were harder going up than they had been going down. There is a lesson in there, somewhere?

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At the top of one of the steep uphill sections

We detoured off the main track – deliberately this time – to visit Red Rock Gorge. This was only a 1.7km deviation and was not too hard. We had to walk a little way to the lookout over Red Rock Gorge and Falls. These were dry, but obviously could have quite a decent flow over them at times. It was quite rugged and dramatic and worth the visit.

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We could see how Red Rock Gorge got its name

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The waterfall at Red Rock Gorge was dry

There was a pretty little former dam, near the carpark, with lots of tadpoles in, which was good to see – as long as they were not cane toad tadpoles!

We took one more wrong turn on the way out, but realized quickly and were able to back up with no dramas. We met another 4WD vehicle coming into the Park. By now it was 4pm. He seemed to have plans to go to the Severn River, and back out again, today! We told him to go to Red Rock Gorge only – and hope he took our advice.

We reached the gate at 4.30pm. The return trip had taken us nearly three hours! I found that being moved and jolted around inside Truck all the time, is really tiring. Worse than driving – at least John has the steering wheel to hold on to. The road was hard on the tyres, due to the sharp rocks. We ran over a big stick that broke and thumped into the side of Truck – there is a new little “ding” there now. Overall, we thought Truck did the trip well.

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This fellow was determined to keep the post between him and me!

We drove 114kms today.

I made fried rice for tea.

We talked for a while with the young couple (with two children) in the van next to us. They too had a Disco – petrol and gas duel fuel, which they were now having trouble running on petrol, for some reason. Since gas can be hard to obtain, out of the cities, this is an issue for them. They are being nomadic for anything up to six years. He is currently fruit picking here – has a job for wages, until May. He has a farming background.

Each day here, so far, has been slightly warmer. It reached 29 degrees today. It felt quite hot, out at Sundown. It would not be a pleasant drive, out there, if it got much hotter. It is not quite as chilly at night, but we still need the doona.


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1999 Travels January 18

MONDAY 18 JANUARY     STANTHORPE

Were somewhat woken up this morning, fairly early, by the noise of resident workers heading off. Not too obtrusive, and we may get used to it. If John has his way, we’ll be joining them!

After a leisurely start, drove to the town centre. Went to the Post Office and collected our mail. Also there was the sapphire jewellery that I’d had made  – sent C.O.D. by J from Rubyvale. That is a useful service that I had not previously known about. The pale greeny ring and blue earrings came up beautifully and I am really pleased with them.

Then to the Tourist Information Centre. I bought a map of the Sundown National Park and collected information about the area – especially the other National Parks, which look really interesting. We had a long chat with the lady behind the counter, who has travelled extensively on camping and 4WD holidays. We do not seem to encounter many staff in such places who have a real understanding of what we are doing.

John stopped at the bowls club and went in to note their game times.

We went to the Employment Office and filled out forms to register there for harvest work. The man did not really indicate how likely we were to find work, but he did say that sometimes farms put signs up at their properties when workers were wanted, rather than going through the formal channels. So John got motivated to go driving round the district, later!

After lunch we set out driving. Followed the Amiens Road circuit drive, outlined in the tourist literature. This was a very attractive and pleasant drive. It took us though both farming country and bushland. We did not see any farm signs wanting pickers – but did see several saying that pickers were not required! I guess they might get sick of people calling in on the off chance and using up their time.

The route took us through several locations with names reminiscent of WW1 – because soldier settler farmers from that war settled here. Amiens, Pozieres, Passchendaele were names we saw – familiar from the research done last year on John’s father’s war.

We visited Donnelly’s Castle – a prominent hill with a jumble of huge granite boulders and formations. This was once a camp and lookout haunt for Captain Thunderbolt, the “gentleman bushranger”. It certainly gave excellent views over the surrounding country, from the top, which was a short clamber from where we parked Truck.

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Looking out over the Granite Belt country from Donnelly’s Castle

Can see why this area is called the Granite Belt – there are outcrops all over. Its fertility thus surprises me, rather – but fertile it is! Stone fruits, cherries, berries, apples, pears and lots of different vegetables are all grown around here. It is particularly noted for apples and pears. The cooler climate, due to its elevation, accounts for much of this farming.

We bought some lovely fruit from a roadside stall, on the way back to camp. We drove 126kms today.

Back at the van, opened and sorted the mail bag. There was not a great deal of note, apart from a book on gemstones that is our Xmas present from P and K. A thoughtful gift. There was the bill for the Truck registration. And a HUGE phone bill: obviously, Telstra was not giving $3 unlimited phone calls on Xmas Day, despite what John thought at the time, when he called all and sundry! Whoops. We have got to use the mobile phone less.

Tea was toasted ham sandwiches. As if we hadn’t had enough ham at Xmas!


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1999 Travels January 17

SUNDAY 17 JANUARY   TOOWOOMBA TO STANTHORPE   145kms

We got up at 8.10. No great urgency, since we were not going far, but we were away at 9.40, after a calm and unhurried pack up. We are getting so good!

It was a most pleasant drive south from Toowoomba. Between there and Warwick, the country was attractive cropping land, with views of hills and ranges all round. At Warwick we crossed the Condamine River – the name reminiscent of the poetry of Banjo Paterson.

After Warwick, the country became less “downs” like and more hilly. There was much less cropping and more grazing. At some stage we must have moved into what is known as the Granite Belt; if landuse is a guide, then about at Warwick. As the name suggests, this is an area where granite dominates the landforms and soil types.

Once we passed the junction with the Cunningham Highway, 13kms north of Stanthorpe, there were lots of semis on the road. This is the main inland and southern route.

We found the Top of the Town Caravan Park easily, located as its name suggests, on a hill on the northern edge of town. It is a Big 4 park, and only $12.60 a night, after discount, plus the seventh night free  – so we booked in for a week. This will help the budget nicely. It seems an adequate park. There are lots of backpackers staying here, in bunkroom type arrangements, working picking fruit and vegetables in the area. The caravan park has a little bus to run them around.

We were in and set up before lunch – an easy move.

After lunch, drove down to have a look at the town – quiet, as one would expect on a Sunday, but we were able to see where the supermarket and Post Office are.

The Quart Pot Creek – wonderful name – flows through the centre of town. We parked nearby and went for a walk on paths along its very well landscaped banks.

There is a real crispness in the air, here, an edge of chill. It is quite pleasant not to have the humidity. Stanthorpe is really high up – 811m above sea level, which is about a hundred metres more than Toowoomba. They can have snow here in winter!

The Qld/NSW border comes very close to the edge of town , then veers off a bit, and one crosses into NSW about 40kms south of here.

John had chilli flavoured sausages for tea, with eggs. I had salad.

Phoned K with our location.

John has seen a notice up in the park about harvest workers, and thinks we should register as fruit pickers – thinking we might make enough money to pay for a solar panel, and not have to fund it from invested money. I am dubious about harvest work – suspect it could be rather hard work for fairly low returns!

We need the doona on the bed tonight – first time for ages.

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1999 Travels January 16

SATURDAY 16 JANUARY     TOOWOOMBA

I walked to the local shops for the papers. Then spent much of the morning reading them.

John went off to afternoon bowls.

I cleaned the van and had a long and lovely swim. I usually have the pool to myself and it is long enough to swim laps and feel like I am exercising a little.

John returned, pleased with the game he’d played today.

We took down the annexe roof and packed away the loose items into Truck.

Tea was soup and leftover pizza.

We have been in Toowoomba for four weeks now. The Truck repairs delayed us somewhat. The place has served its purpose, over the holidays, but I am glad we are moving somewhere new. It really is too urban to be really enjoyable for this long.