This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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1999 Travels June 23

WEDNESDAY 23 JUNE     ALICE SPRINGS

Today it was definitely time to play tourist, properly.

We took a cut lunch and drove west, out Larapinta Drive, to Standley Chasm – some 50kms away. The attraction of Standley Chasm is the way the midday sun lights up the red walls of this very narrow, deep cleft through the rock.

We got there about 11.15, a good time. We had to pay $4 each to the local aboriginal group that runs the area. This, and Simpsons Gap, have long been on the tourist trail in these parts – presumably they were not originally developed as tourist attractions by the aboriginals, but this is a more recent acquisition. This place was named for the first lady school teacher in Alice Springs, who was the first white woman to visit here.

We walked up the track that goes from the car park to the Chasm. This was a very pleasant walk in itself that took us about 15 minutes, and followed a dry creek line.

Because the overhead sun at midday lights up the Chasm walls, there were crowds of people by the Chasm entrance, all poised to take photos, and jostling for a good vantage point, herd-like. It was a bit amusing, actually. It would have been impossible for anyone to take a photo that did not have people in it.

06-23-1999 01 standley chasm

Almost midday in Standley Chasm – waiting for the show!

We joined the herd and took some photos when the walls went rather orange.

Rather than stay with the crowd, we decided to explore further – through the Chasm and beyond. That left most of the other people behind.

06-23-1999 03 beyond chasm

We followed the valley beyond the main part of the Chasm

At the head of the Chasm, a more gradual climb went off to the right, and a steep track to the left. I thought that might connect to the Larapinta Trail, a long distance walk track along the ranges, so we took that. It stopped at a very abrupt cliff into another big valley – real vertigo stuff! John took some photos and then we had to go down again, which was a little tricky and demanded a great deal of care.

06-23-1999 02 chasm far side

At this point, there was an abrupt drop down into the next valley

06-23-1999 04 goat tk at head of Standley Chasm valley.jpg

Our way was more of a goat path than a walk track

By then, we’d seen enough of Standley Chasm, so went back the way we’d come. Saw a rock wallaby, watching us from on top of a rock heap. Ironically, in the main part of the Chasm, the light on one wall was much better than earlier – and there were no people there, any more.

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The walls of Standley Chasm glow orange when the sun is on them

We ate lunch in the carpark; the surrounds were quite pleasant. But there was quite a chill wind blowing.

Drove back towards Alice Springs, then turned off and went to Simpsons Gap. This is only about 23kms from Alice Springs by road.

We took the short walk along the side of Roe Creek, to the waterhole that fills the base of the Gap. It is Roe Creek that – in wetter times – cut the Gap through this part of the Western MacDonnell Ranges. The creek has a sandy bed and there are white trunked ghost gums growing along side it. The walls of Simpsons Gap were glowing orange in the afternoon sun.

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The approach to Simpsons Gap in the afternoon

Simpsons Gap would have been a very significant place for the aboriginals of this area, having the permanent waterhole there.

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The permanent waterhole in Simpsons Gap

Then we drove back along the road for a short distance, parked and walked the 1.5km Cassia Hill Loop Walk. This went up a little hill. The walk was signed with vegetation identification – mulga, witchettybush, several types of cassia. It was interesting, pleasant walking, and there was a reasonable view from the top of the hill.

06-23-1999 09 Cassia Walk Simpsons Gap view along Western McDonnells.jpg

Looking west from the top of Cassia Hill

06-23-1999 10 Cassia Walk panorama RHS.jpg

From the top of Cassia Hill, looking east towards Alice Springs. Bike path in foreground

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Another Cassia Hill outlook to the east

It was late afternoon by the time we walked back to Truck, so time to go back to camp.

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Simpsons Gap in the late afternoon

Although the places we saw today are busy with tourists, they do showcase the essential features of this part of Central Australia – stark, dramatic ranges, dry creeks, occasional waterholes, varied and resilient vegetation, and shy wild life. Sealed roads, formed walking tracks, signs – make it seem deceptively benign; but it can be treacherous country for those who do not take its potential hazards seriously.

Tea was lamb backstrap, pan fried with garlic and rosemary, with potato and salad.

We refuelled Truck today – 84cpl.


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1999 Travels June 22

TUESDAY 22 JUNE     ALICE SPRINGS

The mornings here are quite crisp.

Today was my mother’s birthday – and is also the shortest day of the year. The nights in Alice Springs are long and cold. We have taken to leaving the little electric fan heater to cycle on and off all night, to take away the worst of the chill. It is well down close to zero degrees.

My skin and hair are drying out – due to the low humidity, dry air in these parts.

We got to the auction house about 10am. Had to wait quite some time before the items that interested us came up. Watching as things were sold, we thought that some items were really quite dear.

There were only two bundles of windcheaters – which was what interested me the most – and they were bid up too high for us. We were able to buy two bundles of T shirts, for about $8.50 per shirt. There were 13 altogether, some cream, some navy. We will keep some for ourselves and give the others as presents.

06-21-1999 desert park logo

The logo that was on our T-shirts

After watching some purchasers fiddling with other bundles of these, trying to swap sizes and colours, we felt it prudent to hang around, watching and waiting until the time we could pick ours up. Did not want to turn our backs and find we suddenly had two bundles of child’s sizes!

There was a dumpy level sold. John was annoyed because he hadn’t seen it until after it was done,  and he has always wanted one. I have no idea what one of these is, or if he would ever use it, at home!

It was well into the afternoon by the time we had collected our purchases.

Tea was soup, more sausages, salad. I have lots of leftover cold sausages for lunchtime sandwich fillings, now!


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1999 Travels June 21

MONDAY 21 JUNE     ALICE SPRINGS

Another beautiful day.

After a lazy morning, we set out to visit some of the tourist attractions of the town, but soon got distracted.

Drove through town and up Anzac Hill, just to the north, from where there are good views over the town and surrounds. The size and spread of Alice Springs is evident from up here.

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Central Alice Springs, seen from Anzac Hill. Heavitree Gap is straight ahead.

06-18-1999 west Alice Springs from Anzac Hill

Looking to the west, from Anzac Hill, over the light industrial area.

Then my plans were hijacked, when John saw where the light industrial area was and decided to drive around exploring that. Doesn’t everyone? He spied an auction house, so had to go look at what goodies they might have on offer. He really enjoys auctions, and needs to be watched closely!

There were all sorts of offerings that might have tempted him – had we not been living in a small caravan! But amongst the very diverse items were windcheaters and T shirts from the Desert Park, bundled in assorted sizes. I was not sure whether these were discontinued lines, or whether the place had changed its name. We decided to come to the auction, being held tomorrow, and bid on some of these, as they would make good presents for the family.

For someone setting up house in Alice Springs, this place would be a great source of necessities. It appears as if it is more economic for people leaving town to sell their goods, rather than have them transported elsewhere.

After a couple of hours at the auction house, it was too late to do much except go back to camp.

Tea was sausages, potato and salad.

John phoned S and had a long talk.


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1999 Travels June 20

SUNDAY 20 JUNE     ALICE SPRINGS

This was another morning of just pottering about. A somewhat late start, then we sat outside in the sun, reading.

Lunch was early again, because we both went to bowls at the Memorial Club, for the afternoon. We were in different teams. The afternoon was reasonably pleasant. My bowling was adequate, for once. The people were friendly. I was given, as a new visitor to the club, a badge pin.

Tea was cold roast chicken, potato and salad.


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1999 Travels June 18

FRIDAY 18 JUNE     ALICE SPRINGS

The day was sunny and warm, after a rather chilly night. I remember learning, in high school geography, about the large diurnal range – hot days and cold nights – in the arid inland of Australia. They were not wrong!

John phoned the bank to check about the house insurance. They assured him all was well, just slow processing of paperwork at their end.

Finalized paperwork arising from our mail, related to shares. Had to set up the printer to do so – always a pain in the small space of the van.

Drove to the town centre, posted the mail, did some banking.

Wandered the shops. There are a number of galleries selling aboriginal art works and artefacts. Not all of the latter are genuine products – nor made in Australia! We browsed in a couple of the better-seeming galleries. There was some really attractive aboriginal art, especially a luminous blue dot “Milky Way” series, in one gallery. It was very hard to resist, but I did.

At an excellent gemstone shop, I purchased a small carved stone frog, for $20. That will keep my plaster one company on the shelf above the bed, along with the flawed sapphire.

At a bookstore, John bought a book on using Word Perfect and a little one for me on using Windows. I am such a novice – think it will be really helpful.

Checked out the cinemas – John is always keen to visit these. Did not see anything of note.

We did the grocery shopping.

Oven fried fish from a packet, and fries, for tea.

Cold night again.


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1999 Travels June 19

SATURDAY 19 JUNE     ALICE SPRINGS

Another pleasant day.

Although this caravan park is a busy one, it is not all that noisy in the mornings and we are able to sleep in.

I went and bought the paper and we read that.

After an early lunch, John played bowls at the Memorial Club.

I read. Went for a walk around the park, which is a large one. It has a backdrop of the range that bisects Alice Springs. Originally, the settlement was on the northern side, and the major part of town still is, but there has been some spread to the south. The Todd River passes through the range at Heavitree Gap, as do the Stuart Highway and the railway line.

06-21-1999 range from caravan park.jpg

The range, seen from the caravan park

Roasted a chicken and vegetables for tea.

John was able to watch football on TV in the evening.


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1999 Travels June 18

FRIDAY 18 JUNE     ALICE SPRINGS

The day was sunny and warm, after a rather chilly night. I remember learning, in high school geography, about the large diurnal range – hot days and cold nights – in the arid inland of Australia. They were not wrong!

John phoned the bank to check about the house insurance. They assured him all was well, just slow processing of paperwork at their end.

Finalized paperwork arising from our mail, related to shares. Had to set up the printer to do so – always a pain in the small space of the van.

Drove to the town centre, posted the mail, did some banking.

Wandered the shops. There are a number of galleries selling aboriginal art works and artefacts. Not all of the latter are genuine products – nor made in Australia! We browsed in a couple of the better-seeming galleries. There was some really attractive aboriginal art, especially a luminous blue dot “Milky Way” series, in one gallery. It was very hard to resist, but I did.

At an excellent gemstone shop, I purchased a small carved stone frog, for $20. That will keep my plaster one company on the shelf above the bed, along with the flawed sapphire.

At a bookstore, John bought a book on using Word Perfect and a little one for me on using Windows. I am such a novice – think it will be really helpful.

Checked out the cinemas – John is always keen to visit these. Did not see anything of note.

We did the grocery shopping.

Oven fried fish from a packet, and fries, for tea.

Cold night again.


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1999 Travels June 17

THURSDAY 17 JUNE     ALICE SPRINGS

This was my dad’s birthday – he would have been 89. Had he not died a couple of years ago, he’d have enjoyed hearing and reading about our travels.

After breakfast, drove into town. John found the Memorial Bowls Club and arranged to play this afternoon – a “fix” at last!

We went to the Information Centre and found the staff there very helpful. I collected quite a lot of reading matter and we spent some time looking at displays in the Centre.

Next stop was the Library, where I found I could borrow paperbacks for free. Wonderful. I would have to pay a $10 surety on each hardback book borrowed, though. That’s alright – I have no issues when I will get the money back. So I did a book stock up.

Then it was the Woolworths supermarket for a few food items. I found a film processor and put in four rolls of film to be done. We collected the mail from the Post Office.

Back to the van for a quick lunch and then John was off to bowls. I sorted the bag of mail. There was a letter from my brother and nephew, a card from John’s sister H, a card from friends C and H, travelling in India, written whilst on a train between Madras and Delhi. There was no other personal stuff. I received a Coles Myer discount card, now being a share holder.

Checked the bank statement received – am concerned that no deduction for the house insurance appears on it – surely that is still not a problem? John must check that out, tomorrow.

John came back saying he had not played well at bowls. Out of practice, I guess.

I made veggie soup and we had some for tea, folowed by chow mein and rice, and fruche, as a change from yoghurt.

John tried to phone S a couple of times today – left a message for her at work, and then there was no answer at home at night. I phoned K to let him know where we were and that we had received the mail.

John watched World Cup cricket on TV – no problems with TV here, although the stations are different; there is a local one, Imparja, that seems to replace Channel 9, with some elements of 10 as well. He stayed up till the cricket finished, in the early hours.

I went to bed early, with a book. It is so, so very good to have books to read again!


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1999 Travels June 16

WEDNESDAY 16 JUNE   KINGS CANYON TO ALICE SPRINGS   342kms

It was another beautiful sunny day with a cloudless blue sky.

We got away quite well, at 9.30am.

The Mereenie Loop Road was varied going, but always interesting scenery. There were some corrugated sections, some areas of road works. In places, surface runoff in storms has cut into the road and made channels and sections where only one vehicle can squeeze through. This damage does not look all that recent.

06-16-1999 04 meereenie tk.jpg

Gives a new meaning to “beware – soft edges”! Mereenie Loop Road

 

We stopped at a lookout point back over the George Gill Range.

Encountered a couple of different and amusing road “signs”, each end of quite a sharp bend: Lift um foot………..Puttum back down! Painted on old drums. Guess some of the locals had come to grief on that corner, over time.

06-16-1999 02 meereenie loop sign

Means there is a sharp corner coming up – slow down!

06-16-1999 03 meereenie loop more sign

Beyond the corner. Can speed up. Some punishing corrugations though.

We saw a drilling/bore crew setting up, not far from the road, and from that assumed that the Mereenie oil/gas field is producing. There were also pipeline markers as we got further along.

There was not much traffic on this road. We just took it steadily and carefully, but were passed by a Disco, towing a camper trailer, at speed. He threw up stones over our front.

Came upon a broken down rig – vehicle and trailer – with a couple and two young children. A bracket under the trailer had broken, affecting the axle and wheel. He was not in the NRMA – not that there is any easy way of summoning roadside assistance out here! John helped the guy chain the axle into place, using some chain we had, and we followed them as they drove slowly towards Hermannsburg.

Some time after the road swung back to the east, we could see, coming closer, the hills that mark the Gosse Bluff. This is an old impact crater – probably from a comet that hit the earth a very long time ago, and exploded. Back then, the hills that form the rim of the resulting crater, were very much higher, but erosion over time has worn them well down. But the feature still stands out, very strongly.

06-16-1999 05 gosse bluff

Gosse Bluff from the Mereenie Loop Road

The road deteriorated markedly after the junction with the Gosse Bluff road.

Just before Hermannsburg, we came around a bend – and there was the Disco and camper trailer, all flipped over with wheels in the air and the roof torn off the camper. Two men were getting things out of the interiors. One was the driver, the other was presumably someone from Hermannsburg. The accident had obviously happened a while ago, because it had been a while since he had passed us, and we’d had the other stop since then.

We stopped to see if help was needed. The driver said he was a doctor and his wife had been taken into see a doctor at Hermannsburg, with sore ribs. He seemed remarkably unshocked. It all looked a hell of a mess. He said that he had gotten into the soft sand on the shoulder of the road, lost control, snaked all over the road, hit the bank and flipped, finishing up facing back the way he’d come. He said he’d only been doing about 5kms an hour at the time – no way! Given the speed at which he’d passed us – and, likewise the young couple we were following, who said he’d been doing at least 80kmh – we found that extremely hard to believe. He also said it was a new rig, and he’d left Adelaide the day before. All the hallmarks of a traveller in far too much of a hurry and driving far too fast for these conditions.

06-16-1999 06 oops

Oops! How quickly it can happen

The driver said they were going to try to pull the vehicle back over onto its wheels – like he thought it might still be driveable!

We passed police coming out of Hermannsburg, but no sign of any tow or help equipment.

In at the Hermannsburg settlement, the young couple found they would be able to get welding done to fix their trailer, so we left them there and continued on our way to Alice Springs. Going in along the Larapinta Drive – which became a sealed road about 40kms after Hermannsburg – was really pretty, with the West MacDonnell Ranges looming.

06-16-1999 larapinta rd.jpg

Better road and West MacDonnell Ranges

After an eventful trip, we reached there at 4pm. Booked into the MacDonnell Ranges Caravan Park, at a cost of $113 a week, after Big 4 discount, for three weeks. John thinks we will need that long here, to explore thoroughly – and play bowls. I’d have been more inclined to book in for two weeks. We have been here before – briefly – and on that visit explored out to the east, as far as Trephina Gorge.

We were given a nice big site, with shade trees, looking out towards the ranges to the east. This caravan park is south of the town, through the Heavitree Gap that cuts through the range. We stayed here for a couple of nights on our LSL trip and liked its quiet and security, being out of the town, plus it is modern and very clean.

Just on dark, we drove into town, only a couple of kms away, to buy wine – which we have been out of for a while now – and to get a pizza for tea. Took this back to the van to eat, and it was very nice too.

John’s “good” hip is very sore today, after yesterday’s walk, and he took some Surgam today, to try to ease it.

06-16-1999 kc to alice.JPG


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1999 Travels June 12

SATURDAY 12 JUNE     KINGS CANYON

Rain began during the night and it continued raining steadily through the morning. This made it a day for vegetating around camp. It was cool as well as wet.

I knitted and listened to the radio. Bought some more postcards and wrote some.

John made Chelsea buns.

At least, with the gravel surface on this site, there is no mud problem – unlike at Yulara.

Later in the afternoon, the rain cleared away and the sun came out.

Tea was potato soup, chelsea buns, baked potatoes with a tuna filling.