This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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1998 Travels October 12

MONDAY 12 OCTOBER     MOUNT SURPRISE

Today we went driving, to try to get to Bulleringa National Park. Joe told us yesterday that it had been a cattle property, then was taken over by National Parks. They gave the former owner a job with them – but the job was over beyond Undara, not on the property! There is, apparently, a lot of aboriginal art and the like out there – from the sort of rocky outcrops we have seen out that way, it would not be a surprise. The general public is not encouraged to access the area – but it is not forbidden. The former homestead has been demolished and removed. Joe said that Boral mines pebbles out that way somewhere.

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Rock art on the track to Bulleringa

We kept going, beyond where we’d gotten to, yesterday. It is really interesting country, but with little evidence of people, so we feel quite adventurous.

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Split rock on hilltop by Bullaringa track

We found the pebble mine. It looks a long time since it has been used. But the road has been bladed recently.

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The track to Bulleringa National Park

Came out of the hilly country we’d been travelling through and back into a flatter type.

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From the nature of this erosion gully, they must get some heavy rains at times

Eventually came to a new fence, and gate, and decided it must be the National Park boundary. Not far beyond that was a new looking building, with solar panel. We decided it would be best to turn back at this point, not being sure if we were trespassing in some aboriginal area.

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Distant gorge in Bulleringa area

We had travelled just over 60kms from the topaz fields.

On the way back, we stopped a couple of times at water holes to look at birds. Ate our packed lunch by one of these.

It was a very hot day, however we really enjoyed this remote country driving.

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Rugged country on track to Bulleringa – recently burnt

Stopped at Diggers Rest and bought $75 worth of topaz pieces from Gordon, for future cutting.

Back at Bedrock Village, had a swim before tea.

The mail had come in here (we’d earlier notified K to send the bag of mail to the caravan park) – a letter from S was the only personal item, telling us about their initial experiences in Port Moresby. They live in a secure compound and have to observe strict protocols for their safety.

I put in a food order for Jo to forward.

Made salads for tea – all we felt like in this heat.

There was much lightning at night.

We had an early night – were both tired after the day’s drive, John especially so.


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1998 Travels October 11

SUNDAY 11 OCTOBER     MOUNT SURPRISE

Again, it was an early start, and back out to the topaz fields. We seem to have the fossicking “bug” – John more so than me.

Went to Elsie’s place to collect our pick from Sam. He had a young couple there for a lesson.

We found a couple more bits, at the same place. But there is a big difference between finding bits of topaz and finding pieces that are worth cutting into gemstones for jewellery!

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Miner John all hot and sweaty at O’Briens Creek

When it was starting to get too hot, pulling rocks out of the creek bed, we drove further up Tourmaline Gully, just for a look about. Then we drove out the Bulleringa road, that is shown on our road map of the Gulf Country, towards the west, for maybe ten kms. That was enough to show us some quite spectacular rock country. We will ask Joe about going all the way out to the Bulleringa National Park that is marked on the map. Our general tourist information, and books, don’t say anything about this.

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Around Tourmaline Gully

It is obvious that there has been a sizeable bushfire through these parts, and not too long ago.

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O’Briens Creek countryside

Drove back to town and followed the same routine as yesterday – sleep in the cool van, then a swim as the afternoon began to get a little cooler.

Had a talk with Joe. Apparently there was a large fire, earlier in the year. It started beyond the Forty Mile Scrub and burned in a NNW direction, through a lot of this country, over about a week.

John told Joe that we were happy to stay on longer here, as long as they could keep coming up with interesting suggestions for things to do! They are doing all they can to keep us here. He said that if we needed to top up our food supplies, we could give Jo a list and she would fax it through to the places in Atherton that supply them, and the order would be delivered with theirs, on the weekly supply truck. Very good. Thinking of things for us to do is a good exercise for them, too, because it will provide resource material for them to give future guests.

For tea I made a vegie stir fry with oyster sauce, and boiled rice.


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1998 Travels October 10

SATURDAY 10 OCTOBER     MOUNT SURPRISE

Got up reasonably early and after breakfast headed back out to the topaz fields.

It is a very attractive drive out into the granite hill country. It gets rather rugged and dramatic, in parts. The dirt road goes through cattle properties. At one point, there is a watering point near the road, where we encountered a group of cows, yesterday and today, and much moo-poo on the road. We smelled it long after we’d passed!

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Cattle watering point on O’Briens Creek track

We called in at Diggers Rest and bought a small pick.

We went and dug in the creek where Sam had showed us yesterday. Found a few pieces. Sam arrived and dug near us. I hope he didn’t mind us being there.

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The dramatic country at the O’Briens Creek fossicking area

It is not easy terrain to excavate. The creek bed is a mix of finer gravel interspersed with stones, rocks and larger boulders. It is frustrating, not knowing how many times this same creek bed may have been turned over before! Once some wet season storms have filled the creek, the ground gets settled back down and looks like it hasn’t been dug.

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So – what has been dug over and what has not?

It got very hot, so we gave up at midday, feeling like we would get heat stroke if we went on any longer. Sam took our pick home with him to sharpen – very nice of him.

We went back to camp and slept for most of the afternoon, with the air-con going, then went for a swim.

There was a group of nearly 20 Harley Riders, from Townsville, in for the night, staying in the cabins. Three of them were swimming at the same time as us and were very pleasant to talk to. The riders seemed to drink a lot through the afternoon, so were very quiet at night!

Tea was T-bone steak, potato baked in foil – in the frypan outside – and onions.

The sunset was vivid again.


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1998 Travels October 9

FRIDAY 9 OCTOBER     MOUNT SURPRISE

We had to be up much earlier than usual for our trip out to O’Briens Creek. This “official”  topaz fossicking area is about 40kms to the NW of Mt Surprise, along a reasonable gravel road.

We had arranged for a lesson on fossicking for topaz, from Sam, at Elsie’s Place, on the fields.  He does the instructing on her leasehold. We had to be there by 8.30am. Starting at this hour made sense on a hot day. The lesson cost $10 each. We had no trouble finding the place, following the instructions given at the PO yesterday, by the lady who booked for us.

The fossicking is easy enough – just dig up the gravelly dirt, sieve it, and look. The hard part is figuring out where to dig, when you are on your own! Sam is an interesting old guy. He and John got on really well. After he had showed us the basics – and we had found a few little pieces – he showed us where he is currently digging at Tourmaline Gully, up O’Briens Creek. We had to drive there, following him, but it was not far. Glad he showed us though, as the area is rather a maze of tracks.

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Sam and Wendy digging for topaz at Tourmaline Gully

We finished with him about midday – by which time it was pretty hot.

On the way back, we called in at Diggers Rest, the main establishment out there. They hire out digging equipment and sell topaz. The owner has sold up and is going back to Cairns. He lent us a sieve. He has lots of fairly tame birds at the place, which is a bit of an oasis. He showed us the bower of a bowerbird that lives in the garden – most intricate and attractive, with an entry “pathway” of white stones. Apparently, every so often the bird finds some topaz and puts it there, so the owner exchanges that for a different white stone! We noted that there were oddments of other coloured things, discarded beside the bower. Some trial and error perhaps? There were also apostle birds around, out there.

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The bower of the Great Bower Bird at Diggers Rest

Back in the township, we bought a fossicker’s  licence, for $7.50 a month, for both of us. That will allow us to go looking for topaz, on our own, out there.

Fuelled up Truck – 76cpl. The price is dearer inland!

We went for a lovely long swim.

There were several people from the Savannahlander train, now on its return journey to Cairns, overnighting here, in the new cabins. They went over to the hotel for a counter tea. This is the first time this has happened – people usually stay at the hotel – and we hope this is the start of some extra business for Jo and Joe, whose enterprise we admire. I think the Savannahlander would be an interesting little trip for people to do; it certainly covers a range of dramatic country.

Tea was sweet and sour fish. I used a recipe for sweet and sour chicken to get the sauce and it was excellent.


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1998 Travels October 8

THURSDAY 8 OCTOBER     MOUNT SURPRISE

It was a hot day.

John spent the morning at the computer, finalizing his “big letter” about the Cape trip and then getting it printed off to mail to the offspring, and his former colleagues.

He drove to the PO and mailed his efforts.

We watched the Savannahlander train come through and took some photos of it. This is a funny little tourist train that does a four day trip, once a week, out of Cairns as far west as Forsayth, and back. Its carriages are 1960’s vintage. Travellers do not eat or sleep on board, but the train stops overnight at Almaden, Forsayth and Mt Surprise where they stay at hotels or other accommodation.

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The Savannahlander train at Mt Surprise

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Mt Surprise Railway Station with the Savannahlander train

After lunch, we cycled around the village, to have a look, which did not take long. I bought a few groceries at the store – only $12 worth. Arranged to have a topaz mining lesson tomorrow. We rode almost 3kms.

Then we had a very welcome swim and spent quite some time lazing in the pool. When the children get home from school, they too come swimming.

Tea was home made baked beans – excellent.

After dark, there was some thunder and lightning in the distance  – quite exhilarating to watch. It is definitely the storm season build up, which seems to maybe be a little earlier than usual?


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1998 Travels October 7

WEDNESDAY 7 OCTOBER     MOUNT SURPRISE

We got up to a day that was already warm.

Drove the 54kms to Undara, some of it retracing our way yesterday, and just got there in time for the two hour tour that left at 10.30am. This cost us $26 each.

From the office, we were driven by mini bus to the Tubes, proper – not far. It was a very interesting and informative tour. We saw rock wallabies relaxing from the heat of the day on rock ledges in the cave like areas – smart move!

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Rock wallaby resting on a shaded ledge

There had just been some board walks and stairs put in, to make it easier for tourists, and to avoid scrambling over volcanic boulder fields.

We walked down into and through different tubes. Some were cave-like; in others the roof had collapsed and there was rainforest growing in areas of light.

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Inside a lava tube, showing patterned rock walls, pile of volcanic rocks from fallen roof, and thick vegetation in the open part

We learned that the Tubes were formed from lava flows from volcanoes off to the south east. The lava filled old creek and river beds and flowed along these. The tops cooled first and thus hardened, but the still molten stuff inside kept flowing off to further along, before it too dried. Hence the tube-like formations. The area of occurrence of these is quite vast. At least one tube is thought to have been over 100kms long – and maybe the largest in the world. In places, the tube roofs have collapsed in, and the resultant fertile hollows have rainforest growth. Apparently, from the air, these darker green patches show the lines of the lava tubes.

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A Google Earth snip showing the line of a lava tube, and a volcanic cone in the Undara region

In places, the walls and ceilings of the tubes are patterned in whorl shapes and with a variety of colour patterns, caused by different minerals in the original lava.

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Unusual patterns and colours in the Undara rock

To the original aboriginal inhabitants of the area, the tubes were mysterious places where the Quinkan men lived – the same spirit people we’d seen depicted in the art works around Laura.

After the tour, which we decided was excellent value, we partook of the tea/coffee provided at the restaurant area, then wandered around the Undara complex. For a “different” outback tourist experience for travellers, the accommodation units in old railway carriages were novel. These carriages are about a hundred years old and were purchased and brought here a few years ago, when the tourist venture was being set up. Surprisingly, they don’t seem all that out of place in the bush.

The camp area did not look great – bare and dusty. I much prefer Bedrock Village.

The place seemed to have a lot of staff, for this time of year. I bought some postcards and a magnet.

We took the walking track from the complex, up to the Bluff. Met a lot of squatter pigeons along the track. I suppose the birds have this name because they seem to spend most of their time on the ground and sort of squat and look at you. Ate our pre-packed lunch up there. I’d brought this with us, as our budget restricts us from buying meals in places like this. The Bluff walk was a short, hot one, a bit under a km each way, that allowed us a view out over the Hundred Mile Swamp and the volcanic cone and shield region where the tubes are.

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The outlook south from The Bluff at Undara – volcanic cone in the distance

Undara certainly is unique – I am very pleased we visited it.

Retraced our walk back to the complex and then drove back to camp. Had a swim in the pool – great. It was pleasantly cool, with ledges in places at the side where one could sit, almost submerged. Just what was needed in this heat.

There was some cloud build up through the afternoon.

John made the area under the awning shady by draping the big piece of shade cloth we carry around the sides. Not very sophisticated in appearance, but effective.

We sat outside again, in the dusk – there was a lovely moon rise again. It looked quite dramatic, appearing and disappearing behind the cloud cover.


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1998 Travels October 6

TUESDAY 6 OCTOBER     CAIRNS TO MT SURPRISE     320kms

It was a slow pack up, with lots of fiddling about, not helped by us stopping to chat with some nearby campers who came from Dennington in Victoria.

We got away at 10am, which wasn’t too bad, apart from the fact we had a fair drive ahead.

Going up the range to Kuranda with the van was fine, and John was quite relaxed.

We travelled the Kennedy Highway, through Mareeba, Atherton, Ravenshoe and south, then the Gulf Development Road west to Mt Surprise.

The farming and grazing country of the Tablelands is so pretty, though what we travelled through today was not as spectacularly so as the south eastern parts we’d seen on our earlier day trip up here. The way was hillier than I’d expected, south of Atherton. There were some patches of rainforest still, but we moved more into the savanna woodland type of country as we went.

Crossed what seemed to be a mini range between Ravenshoe and Mount Garnet – the last of the Great Divide, I guess.

We lunched just out of Ravenshoe, at the Millstream Falls National Park. We took a short side track from the highway to reach the parking area. From here we walked down to the falls and along the Millstream Creek a little. There were plenty of birds along the way and, of course, we’d left the binoculars and bird books back in Truck. The track to the falls, which had some stairs too, was about 350 metres each way, which was enough in the heat. The Millstream Falls are supposed to be the widest single drop falls in Australia – but they did not seem particularly wide to us. Maybe when they are in full flood? Anyway, it was a very pleasant spot, and a pretty valley.

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Millstream Falls

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Cooling off in the Millstream Creek

As we continued on the main highway, noticed some side tracks going off towards the Millstream. If one was camped around there, they could be worth exploring.

We had planned to stop and look at the Innot Hot Springs, and maybe stay a night there, but they were shut.

By the early afternoon, the travel was rather hot and dry – we were well into the dry grass and woodland country now. The road was sealed, but often just a single width strip of bitumen, and John had to pull off onto the shoulder to let oncoming traffic past.

Passed through Mt Garnet township – small – but didn’t stop.

We took a drink break at the Forty Mile Scrub National Park – just in a gravelled pull-over section beside the road. Some remnant dry rainforest and semi evergreen vine thicket is preserved in this park. The latter is an ancient type of vegetation, similar to other ancient remanants in Asia and Africa. There was a short walk track we could take from the parking area, but it did not look all that attractive and we couldn’t be bothered. There is a pleasant, new-ish, picnic area there, with composting toilets, tables, seats and shelters. It could even be an overnight stop, for those so inclined, though it is right by the highway.

Just south of Forty Mile Scrub, turned off the highway, to the west. We intended to stay at Mt Surprise, rather than at Undara. I’d heard somewhere that the camp area at Undara was not very pleasant, being rough, dusty and overpriced. As we came into Mt Surprise township, saw an eye catching and different sign for a Bedrock Village Caravan Park, so turned right to go have a look.

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A different sort of sign

It is a new park, only opened this year, developed by a young couple, Jo and Joe, who have two young children. Jo is originally from Bendigo. In the course of our finding out about the place, and deciding to check in, John did much talking with Jo about computer matters. She is interested to see what our scanner does. She is a part time admin assistant at the local school, which has eight students, from three families! As the nearest proper commercial centre is Atherton, there are some challenges involved in business activities out here.

The park is open and hot; there is not much shade yet, although lots of trees have been planted in strip beds that divide the sites. We booked in for a week, anyway, to use this as a base to explore the area. The park also has a very nice looking, new, inground pool. The amenities are in a pre-fab donga type building – adequate but not fancy.

We were charged $14 a night, with the seventh night free. Still under our budget.

Setting up camp was a hot exercise. I thought Cairns was hot, but there is a big increase in heat away from the coast!

The park will be lovely when the trees and shrubs have grown up. We really like the concept of one rig per pull through bay – saves a lot of backing issues, for starters!

There are hardly any other guests here. The tourist season is definitely over. Jo told us that tourist places further west, like in Karumba, would be mostly shut down now. We had begun to wonder about that, after seeing the Innot Hot Springs closed. Guess we may have to revise our plans.

We collected information about Undara and its tours from Joe, who used to be a Savanna Guide there.

Tea was the last of the corn soup, then fettucine with my best pasta sauce.

We sat outside at dusk, putting on insect deterrent because there were some mozzies – that surprised me! Looked at a superb sunset in the west and then a lovely moonrise in the east.

John found he can only get one TV channel – 10 – and that is not very good quality. Fine by me!

John got out the scanner and scanned the map of the Cape to use in a letter he is writing.

It was a hot evening, so we turned the air-con on for a while. However, the night cooled down enough for us to sleep comfortably.

It is wonderful to be away from urban Cairns and out in the bush again. It is so quiet.

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Cairns to Mt Surprise, via the Atherton Tablelands


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1998 Travels October 5

MONDAY 5 OCTOBER     CAIRNS

Spent the morning around camp, then went off to the doctor in the early afternoon.

John had some skin things burnt off. The doctor reassured him that rarely do such things turn cancerous.

I’d made an appointment along with John and had my skin checked over. All ok. My blood pressure was 150/75, which he seemed to think was alright. I got a new script for my Gopten blood pressure pills.

Then we picked up a few more groceries – another $20 – and some more beer and wine casks, since John thought there would be room in Truck for same.

Bought diesel – 69cpl.

Back at camp we took down the awning roof and washed it too. That took ages – lots of leavings from birds and fruit bats. Big trees provide good shade but do have their down side.

It looks like we will finally get away from Cairns! My fear was that there would be something wrong with John’s skin that would delay us further!

Tea was soup, followed by beef and mushroom stir fry from John’s Gut Busters book – a “slim” stroganoff! Served with noodles and zucchini.


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1998 Travels October 4

SUNDAY 4 OCTOBER    CAIRNS

John was not feeling well, so we had a lazy day.

I did a load of washing. Had a swim.

John repaired the gas lamp and camp stove we’d used on the Cape trip. Basically, both had accumulated too much dust and dirt in their little burners. At such times it is very useful to have the air compressor that we had fitted to Truck.

Tea was more corn chowder and a honey chicken stir fry.


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1998 Travels October 3

SATURDAY 3 OCTOBER    CAIRNS

I walked to the local shop for the paper.

John bowled in the afternoon.

I cleaned the van, read, had a swim.

Tea was corn chowder that I made during the afternoon, and beef stir fry with peppers.

After tea, we watched the federal election count. I have been looking forward to this.  It is a bit of a luxury for me as usually in elections I miss most of the coverage, due to working in a polling place. Often it would be after midnight before I got home. The government will get back with a reduced majority – no surprise there. Looks like we will be having a big new tax!  Cheryl Kernot’s apparent failure to win her tilt at a Reps seat was disappointing, if not a surprise. I still think she should have stayed with the Democrats.