After a really cold night, we woke to sunshine and blue sky.
Breakfasted with our friends, who were planning to head back to Canberra later today, and left their place at 10.15am.
A comfortable overnight stop
Knowing the proximity of the larger centre, Cootamundra, to our friends’ intended retirement home, we paid more than usual attention as we travelled south through there. It seemed a sizeable centre, with interesting old flour mill buildings.
Wagga appeared to be growing fast, from what we observed as we took the ring route that avoided the town centre.
Took the Narrandera road west, then turned off that at Collingullie onto a road that would take us directly to Jerilderie. This was a way we hadn’t gone before; not a major road but perfectly fine for our rig.
Stopped at Lockhart for lunch, pulling in at a park by the swimming pool, where there was also a toilet block. Pleasant spot for our purpose. I made sandwiches from the makings I had in Bus.
John decided to let Couey off the leash for a little run on the grass. But the great swamp dog sniffed a distant puddle of water and took off for a wallow in that, coming back muddy, smelly, but oh-so-happy. I wasn’t.
Lockhart park
After Lockhart, the country became flatter with less natural vegetation and more obvious farm activity. For quite a while, trees were almost a novelty.
Trees!
At Jerilderie, joined the Newell Highway, a very familiar route. Decided to stop for the day at Tocumwal, where we had stayed on previous occasions.
Took an en-suite site at the caravan park, costing $37.80, after chain discount.
Tocumwal site
This is a park that has a dedicated, fenced, dog exercise run – something I’d love to see more parks adopt. So, after setting up, dog got a nice ball throw session in the run.
The carvavan park dog run
Lazed about for the rest of the afternoon.
Tea was a concoction made in the frypan, from mince and some vegies – kind of a stir fry, but without rice.
Had we realized then that this was to be the last night we would spend in Bus, probably would have made a bigger occasion of it.
No rush to get up and going this morning, as we were only going such a short way.
Fuelled up Bus at the servo conveniently located by the caravan park. $149.9cpl.
Headed south out of town, along the Olympic Way, through the quaintly named hamlet of Wombat, to Wallendbeen. Cherry orchards, grazing and cropping country, lots of granite outcrops and rocks along the way.
The little township of Wallendbeen, located by the Sydney-Melbourne railway, is sandwiched between that rail line and the modern Olympic Way highway, so we had to turn off and trundle through the village to reach the destination of our friends’ home.
For the last several decades, careers had determined that these friends lived in Canberra, but a few years ago, they had purchased a cottage here. Initially, this was to be a weekender, but they had plans to eventually retire here. Less than two hours’ drive from their Canberra home, it was an ideal semi-rural weekend retreat in a quaint village.
Wallendbeen ruins
Clearly, the village had once been functioning as a larger centre than it is today. A common tale for so many rural settlements, sadly. The settlement grew as a service centre on what had started as a large pastoral run, from the mid 1800’s. The railway arrived in the 1870’s and with it a rail passenger service. A large silo complex was built for movement of the grain grown in the district. Today, those silos would be perfect for some new silo art!
Some art work would really brighten this up
It has been decades since passenger trains stopped in Wallendbeen; the Sydney-Melbourne trains and long goods trains just go straight through. With today’s car travel and larger service centres in nearby Young and Cootamundra, the only business still operating in town was the hotel.
Parked Bus out front of our friends’ place, hooked up to power with a long lead and had a great catch up, over lunch.
After lunch, we all went walking. Firstly, along a beautiful tree-lined track to the cemetery – old, historic.
The track to the cemetery
Wallendbeen cemetery
Browsed among some interesting old gravestones.
The cemetery track passed by a paddock containing some cattle. Being curious critters, these all came to the fence, perhaps to see if we had food to offer. Our big, brave cattle dog was having none of it – forget the “cattle” part! Big, brave, stick-retrieving, yes – sticks are much more her scale. She resolutely ignored the cows, much to the amusement of H and C. Not even a bark.
Cattle – what cattle?
Our walk continued around the village, so we could see it all, then adjourned to the hotel. This seemed to be flourishing – had clearly modernized its offering to bring in travellers as well as locals. We supported it with some happy hour drinks before wandering back to the cottage for tea.
Old General Store
Wallendbeen Hotel
H told us that there was a Rest Stop at the town park, by the highway, that was an overnight stop for RV travellers – toilets, a little picnic shelter, but no other facilities, apart from being very quiet and pleasant.
Some interesting walking around the village
Exercise and fresh country air led to an early night, and a good night’s sleep. This was one place I felt quite secure, even private, sleeping on a nature strip in front of a house!
The usual start to the day – early for me, later for John.
Eventually headed off. First to shops, to buy food for tea that was suitable for electric frypan one-pan cooking. Decided on steaks. Bought some wine for tomorrow’s hosts. Bought rolls to fill for lunch, and a Saturday paper.
Young
After lunch back at Bus, it was back in the car because there was one remaining local feature that I wanted to visit: the Lambing Flat Tribute Garden and Chinaman’s Dam, on the edge of town. Here, we found a pleasant walk through the oriental styled garden by the dam. Wandered about and explored this for a while, on what was the nicest weather day since we’d been here.
Lambing Flat Tribute Gardens
Dog had to wait in car while we walked, so rewarded her with a trip to the usual exercise area.
Then cruised around some more of the streets of town, having a final look about.
Old railway station Young – now Information Centre
It had been a pleasant stay here, worth the time spent. I guess travellers who made more use of each day and were inclined to pack more into their days, could have seen all that we did in half the time, but I was glad that this was not just another town we’d passed through without staying.
Cherry orchards near Young
Tea was the steaks bought this morning, with a few fried mushrooms and slices of potato – and a side salad, though John didn’t see the need for the latter.
John had an “in” day yesterday. Today was my turn – definitely “out”.
I planned an explore to the south, and a more substantial drive than the one a couple of days ago.
Retraced the same way to Murringo, which was no problem because it was such an interesting area.
East of Young – Mopetty Road
SE from Murringo, to Boorowa, which we’d passed through on a previous trip from Canberra to Cowra.
Turned SW, on a minor road, to Cunningar and the Burley Griffin Way. This took us to the town of Harden, another one of the many settlements in this region that dates back over 150 years. Harden is on the Sydney to Melbourne rail route. We drove along side streets and found the railway station, but it was not the impressive building I was hoping to find, but very utilitarian.
More importantly, on another side street, we found Jacksons Bakery Café – and it was lunch time, well and truly. The eat-in section was rather old-world – very pleasantly so. There looked to be an outdoor garden dining area also, but not for investigation today. John indulged himself in a pepper pie and a pastie, and pronounced them both excellent. I had a generously filled salad roll. We both had coffees too.
Harden
Back in the car again, explored a few more of the Harden side streets, then went on to nearby Murrumburrah, almost a part of Harden it seemed. Nothing to see there, really, but we turned off the main road at that point and took a series of minor roads back to Young, through attractive farming country. It was easy to see why this whole area was so attractive to the early settlers, spreading out from the established settled limits, looking for land to claim.
Sydney to Melbourne rail line near Harden
Given our usual late start this morning, it was well into the afternoon by the time we got back to Young. Went straight to the dog exercise area to reward Couey for being a good dog – vehicle travel is not something she enjoys, spending the whole time on the floor behind the driver’s seat – stretched right at the limit if her harness, which can’t be comfortable. How did we come by a cattle dog that doesn’t like moving vehicles and can’t eat bones?
That had been a lovely circuit drive, though I’m sure that lunch was the highlight for the driver!
Only a light tea after that – biscuits and cheese.
In the early hours of the morning, I could hear light rain on the roof.
I was up at 7.45am, courtesy of dog.
Dog having a nap – not the most elegant position
The day seemed a bit warmer than previous ones, maybe because it was a mix of cloudy and sunny.
John was not in a mood to do go out and about today, except for the mandatory trip to the dog exercise area. He was engrossed in some computer game., then spent much of the afternoon napping.
Ball games
I read and did some quilt sewing. A mundane day.
Dinner was a fry-up using the electric frypan – sausages, potato slices, egg with some salad on the side. Not really salad weather, but with limited cooking options…
I was woken at 8am by the phone. Was friend H calling. We arranged to visit them at Wallendbeen on Sunday, and stay the night there. That means we should be getting home about Tuesday.
It was yet another chilly grey day, although mostly dry. I was finding the weather adversely impacting on my enthusiasm for travel!
John got up about 10am. After his breakfast, decided to have another fiddle with the gas bottles. He went off in the car to buy a new bottle, thinking the problem might relate to the empty out of date one, but couldn’t find a store that sold them.
After an early-ish lunch, set off for a little local area drive, detouring first via the dog exercise park.
Went out through what would have been the really early part of Young, along Whitemans Road, past Garibaldi Gully and the tourist fossicking area.
It was about 20kms to the village of Murringo, through really attractive rolling hill and valley country.
Young countryside
Murringo was a quaint settlement, with some lovely old stone buildings. The first settlement here was in 1827, so then it would have been outside the Limits of Location – the nineteen counties radiating out from Sydney, where settlement was legal.
All this area was fertile, well watered and attractive to the squatter pastoralists of the 1820’s and 30’s. It was north of the more settled “civilized” areas around Yass and Boorowa. The Lambing Flat that was the precursor to Young, was the site of sheepyards, shepherds’ huts for lambing ewes in the good creek valley. Thus it stayed until the gold discoveries of 1860. By 1861 it was clear the new gold fields were rich, and they soon extended over an area 20 miles by 10 miles. By 1861, there were some 20,000 miners, and about 3000 Chinese. In that year, the settlement was formally named and gazette, which meant that land could legally be bought and sold.
Turned NW, towards the Murringo Gap, travelling along a fertile looking valley that gradually narrowed, with the flanking hills becoming bigger. The Murringo Gap is a kind of pass through the sides of a rift valley formation that extends between Young and Cowra. Through the Gap, we took the unsealed Nine Mile Gap road that would take us back to the Olympic Way north of Young and thus we completed a circuit.
Through the Murringo Gap
Stopped at the Lions Lookout north of town – gave a panoramic outlook over the rolling farmlands.
Tea was pork fillet with sweet and sour sauce, from a jar. I sent John off to the camp kitchen to microwave a packet of rice.
I decided to shower, after tea. The en-suite could benefit from having a heater – brr.
After my breakfast, used the camp’s sink to wash out the extremely yukky frypan.
I did a lot of reading of the local tourist material picked up yesterday. Suggested to John that we abandon the idea of going to the coast and just spend time exploring around this central part of eastern NSW. We have to be home in less than three weeks now, for John’s next medical appointment, so it would be too much of a rush for us to do what had originally been envisaged. John agreed. He decided to extend our stay here for another couple of days, and went up to the office to do that. Whilst there, he negotiated a free night for a week’s stay, so we are now booked in here until next Sunday morning.
John then sat down to check his emails. Was an unpleasant one from his daughter, feeling let down because we hadn’t gone to Broken Hill. Oh well, those who do not respond to phone or email messages do not get visited. Simple as that.
I sent a message to our friend H, saying that we were in the approximate area of their weekender home and could visit them for a night, if wished.
John took the gas bottles to be filled. One was out of date and could not be filled. When he put both the full and empty bottles back and connected them up, there was a strong smell of gas about, and a hissing noise. He fiddled about but no improvement. The gas bottle compartment was a small and difficult area in which to work. He decided to leave the lot turned off. This meant no gas for cooking. He decided that, after we left here on Sunday we would just head off back towards home and get the gas sorted out back in Bendigo.
John messing about with gas bottles
This trip was not going to plan – vague as those plans had been.
After lunch, took Couey to the park for ball game exercise.
With dog suitably tired, and asleep on the back seat of the Terios, drove to the big old former school building that houses the Lambing Flat Folk Museum. Cost us $5 each to enter.
I am not a great fan of museums, generally, but found this one really worthwhile. There were really comprehensive displays – quite an eclectic lot and thus more interesting than many. Had a long chat with the volunteer attendant – but about the share market, rather than the museum. He was working on his laptop and told us he’d just bought shares in a new gold mine and the share price was rising nicely. He really knew his shares!
Spent well over an hour browsing the exhibits before heading back to Bus, via supermarket. I had to slightly revise meal plans, now there was no stove.
Tea was ham steaks, pineapple slices, fried egg, also some sliced potato for John.
I messaged our travelling neighbours to see where they were in SA. I’d recommended that they visit Mt Ive – thought they’d enjoy the station campground, the outback environment and remoteness. And so they had, spending four nights there. Because of rain and track closures, they’d had to go via Iron Knob to leave rather than the more direct way to Minnipa.
Watched Masterchef on TV. John had a couple of other programs he wanted to watch, without disturbance, so it was 11pm before I could go to bed.
I had the usual early morning start, courtesy of dog. John stayed in bed until 8.30am. Given the still damp conditions outside, we did well to be ready to depart the park at 10.15. Only a little after the regulation departure time.
The annexe matting was wet, muddy and most unpleasant to pack up. My problem ankle chose this morning to be unusually painful, which didn’t help at all.
We had decided to head roughly NE, staying on the eastern side of the Great Dividing Range, to intersect the Golden Highway around Dunedoo. That would then take us east to the coast at Newcastle, thus avoiding both Sydney and the steeper gradients to the north. We were not in a great hurry, and some of this country was new to us, so it wouldn’t matter if we took a week or more on this part.
Stayed on the NSW side of the Murray, taking Spring Drive towards Corowa. Even in dull weather conditions, this was a pretty way to go, with the trees of the river reserve to our right, all the way.
Following the Murray River valley towards Corowa
Refuelled in Corowa: $144.9cpl.
From Corowa, took a meandering way north, firstly through Howlong, then back roads to Culcairn, via a little township quaintly called Burrumbuttock. This was new country for us, interesting, and the back roads were quite good. This was good looking farming country growing crops and sheep, mostly. One lot of really frisky lambs briefly entertained us.
There was some mizzly rain on and off through the day. Saw lots of parrots flitting about the roadsides, and then apostle birds made their appearances.
Stopped in Culcairn – toilet stop for us and dog. Admired a beautiful old hotel there, and were able to give Couey a run and ball chase in a side street by the hotel.
Hotel at Culcairn – and nice quiet street for doggy ball games
From Culcairn, we were on the Olympic Way, which I think we might have travelled before, but ages ago. On through Henty to Wagga Wagga. From Culcairn to Wagga the highway was paralleled by a railway, maybe the one slated to maybe one day be the main inland north-south rail route.I had thought we might stay here for the night, but John was enjoying the driving and wanted to continue, so we took the bypass route around that centre, crossing the Murrumbidgee River – for the umpteenth time in our travels over the years.
Murrumbidgee River at Wagga Wagga
Ate our packed lunch at a roadside stop north of Wagga, then continued on through Cootamundra towards Young. Around Bethangra went through a low range of hills, an interesting change from the rolling farmland. The gradient was sufficient for there to be stretch of highway with passing lanes. Encountered one of the railway crossings where the road has been engineered into a big, sharp, S bend – to slow traffic right down – in this case, to 35kmh.
I hadn’t realized, until we came into large areas of orchards, that the Young region is a major cherry growing one.
John decided this would be far enough for today, so I did a quick scan in my caravan parks reference book and found the Young Tourist Park – the only one in the town.
The caravan park was not the easiest to find. We had to negotiate the centre of town, roundabouts and all. I was pleased it was a Sunday afternoon and not a weekday.
Having misread the caravan park book, I was pleasantly surprised to find the park had some en-suite sites, so we booked in for two nights. $50 a night was a bit on the high side, but there was no competition.
It was after 4pm by the time we got onto our site, which we were able to drive straight onto. By now John was tired, so we left the car hitched up for the night. The site had drive through wheel strips to park on, and a small paved area. The solid brick ensuite was spacious, clean and nice.
Took Couey for a quick walk, on lead, around the park. It was not very busy. Guess mid-winter would not be peak tourist season in these parts.
I made John a hamburger with the lot for tea. I had the same, minus the bread roll.
Watched MasterChef on TV, then had an early night.
Dog woke me at 8am. Suspect she may have been fed up with the snoring, too. Anyway, she wanted out, so we paddled off to the gravelled area at the side of the park and I gave her a ball chase. Put her on the lead to walk around the park. As we got closer to the foreshore, she really wanted to head for the lake, so we would need to watch her carefully from now on, now that she knows there is a giant sized “puddle” over that way.
It was too cold and damp to breakfast outside, as I prefer.
John got going mid-morning and after his breakfast, we set out in the car to go “into town”.
But first, drove slowly through Kyffins Reserve, adjacent to our caravan park. I’d read of this place as a popular camping area, for fully self-contained rigs, as there are no amenities provided. Could see why it would be attractive, in the warmer months, combining waterfront and bushland. At this time of year and in these conditions, there was only one lot of campers, newly arrived, setting up by the water’s edge. Optimistic people, I thought. It was evident, from campfire remains, that the No Camping edict in sections of the Reserve, had been ignored. The selfish minority in action again.
The main shopping precinct for the twin towns is Yarrawonga, so it was back across the bridge over Lale Mulwala. John’s priority was to find somewhere to buy a TV cable. That accomplished, drove around, looking, getting a feel for the place. Looked at the weir which dams the Murray River and hence forms Lake Mulwala upstream from it. Saw caravan parks that looked alright and would be more central than where we are set up. In the warmer months, I suspected our park would be dominated by the fishing and watersports/boating fraternities and not a peaceful place to be. So, if we were to return at such a time, think we would seek out one of the town parks to stay.
Lake Mulwala bridge
Had to go to Woolworths to stock up on fruit and vegies, having not brought any from home due to fruit fly restrictions. John decreed he wanted meals of ham steaks, skinless franks, and hamburgers, so I bought up the makings for those. No one will ever accuse him of healthy eating!
To a bakery for lunch rolls – rather a disappointing lack of interesting options there. Then, complete with the Saturday papers and a new Caravan Parks guide book to replace our outdated one, it was back to camp.
While I made up the lunch rolls, John tried to get the TV recorder to work. No luck – the new cable was no miracle fix.
Although the rain ceased late morning, and the ground around our site progressively dried out, we largely stayed inside for the afternoon, as it was still really cold. I read. The dog slept. John spent more time fiddling with his TV set up but eventually decided that the TV and the new expensive recorder might be incompatible with each other – one a Kogan, the other a Panasonic. I could not care less.
I did venture out for a walk around the park, and took some photos of the lake.
Lake Mulwala at the caravan park
Cooked the skinless franks for John’s tea, which he had hot dog style inside bread rolls. I had some salad.
There was a really nice camp kitchen near our site. I took our washing up over there to do – easier than in Bus.
Our site with improved weather
Football watching on the TV for John after tea. I read some more and went early to bed, to try to get to sleep before John and the commencement of his snoring serenade.
By mid-morning, we were just about ready to depart. I made a tentative suggestion that, given the bleak day, we might consider a delay of a day or two. Nup. No way. John was in travel mode. End of story.
I had taken some perishables we could not use, to the neighbours on our other side. They had only moved in a couple of months ago, so we did not yet know them as well as the travelling ones. Gave them orange juice and milk, as those containers didn’t fit in the small Bus fridge, and some grapes – anticipating travel in fruit fly exclusion zones.
The man – G – came out to watch us hitch up the rig out front, after John had extracted Bus from the sideway, and I’d locked up the house. There was a D shackle missing from the car hitch – must have been “borrowed” for some other purpose, and not put back. So I had to unlock the house again, to get the keys for the locked shed, so the missing item could be found. I think neighbour was slightly amused, as well as intrigued by the car hitch. He’d not seen one close up before. Our departure did not really paint a picture of efficient travellers.
So, almost 11am before we left. Still raining…
Great day for travel
We had not been to Yarrawonga or Mulwala before, so decided on those twin towns that straddle the Murray River, for our first night’s destination. Not too ambitious for the first day of travel. I was kind of determined to keep us to short travel days, if possible, as sitting for too many hours in Bus without any exercise was not great for my leg circulation. Whether I could rein in The Driver’s predilection to just keep driving remained to be seen.
As soon as we left home, I entered battle with the GPS, which wanted to direct us through the centre of Bendigo, and managed to persuade John to take a route via Eaglehawk. Eventually GPS caught up with the way I wanted to go, to join the highway at Epsom. Not often I win one, but my nemesis sulked away, plotting revenge.
Victoria’s solution to roads that need repairs…
The day was grey and drizzly when we left home. The rain grew heavier through the day. We passed a lot of wet and very miserable looking sheep along the way.
Wet and woolly
In Mooroopna, needed a comfort stop and then decided to eat our lunch rolls while parked up there. It was too chilly to wander about outside, so we ate in Bus.
Crossed the Goulburn River wetlands between Mooroopna and Shepparton, and then missed the angled deviation road that we should have taken. Not a peep of prior advice from the GPS! The resultant turn on to the highway in the centre of town was not easy, with traffic squashing up tightly. We do need to swing a little wide on sharp turns.
Goulburn River
Took the Katamatite road. I had it all plotted out on my paper atlas map. But the GPS had a brain fade – revenge? – and took us along back roads. I mean real back roads, just one step up from unsealed. I had no idea where we were. At one stage we seemed to be in an area called Boosey, which didn’t appear on my maps. Eventually we rejoined the road to Yarrawonga, east of Katamatite.
Back road countryside
I had booked us into the DC on the Lake Park at Mulwala, so we trundled through Yarrawonga without stopping, drove across the bridge/causeway into Mulwala on the NSW side and sought out the park. It was considerably further out of the town than I’d anticipated.
Bridge from Victoria into NSW
Our powered site cost $27 a night, after Top Tourist discount. The reception lady said the ground was sloppy – not surprising after all the rain – and we could go for a walk and select our own site. In the middle of winter, in the midst of a rain event, a waterside caravan park was not exactly bursting at the seams! In fact, there was no one else on any of the sites. If I believed in omens…
The park was dominated by cabins and privately owned permanent camp set-ups, it seemed. There was a foreshore grassed area but dogs were not allowed on that, which might have been annoying in fine weather.
We chose a site that had some gravel on it, that looked a bit drier, than the others around. There were no sites with cement slabs. The site was not far from the amenities block, a good idea given the continuing rain.
No need to worry about neighbours…
It was a bit windy, as well as drizzling rain, so we got set up quickly. John took Couey right off to the side of the park and gave her a ball chasing run.
John spent quite some time fiddling with setting up the new TV recorder he’d bought a few days ago, so he wouldn’t be limited to just “live” TV. He’d spent about $400 on this. Eventually decided that, to make it work, he needed a new cable, that had not been provided.
I’d planned that we’d go get fish and chips for tea, but John was pre-occupied with his TV issues, and it was a fair way back to town, so I fished a tin of tomato soup from my under-seat cache of tinned goodies. Cooked some pasta which we had with bottled stir-through sauce. It was an alright meal, but not what I’d been looking forward to.
Late in the afternoon really heavy rain set in. By dark, the ground outside Bus was flooded. Going to the amenities involved wading…
After tea, John watch football on TV. I read.
Through the night, my sleep was interrupted by John’s snoring, which seemed to have become much louder than the last time we travelled.
This Adventurous Age 