This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.

Monthly Archives: February 2017


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1999 Travels January 19

TUESDAY 19 JANUARY     STANTHORPE

This morning, got ourselves organized for a day trip out into the Sundown National Park – to the northern section. Went south on the New England Highway. Refuelled at Severnlea – 63cpl. At Ballandean turned west.

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The Sundown Road became an unsealed road

The Sundown Road eventually turned into an unsealed track. We went through a sort of an entrance gate. The book I was using said this was a demanding 4WD track, and for once, we agree! It was very rocky and almost all either up or down. There were some pretty big rocks to go over or around, in places. The signage could be better, but maybe that is part of the challenge?

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The unsealed road turned into a rough track

We drove to Burrows Waterhole – 16kms from the entrance gate. It took us nearly two and a half hours to get there. We did not take any wrong turns, so we averaged under 8 kmh!

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The track to the Severn River can be seen disappearing into the distance

There was one other set of people at Burrows Waterhole – a young couple with two children, in a Disco. He had not done much 4WD-ing and was glad to see us, he said, because it meant someone would be coming behind him on the way out, if he came to grief! They had camped at the southern end of the park, so it was a long drive round to get here, and they felt that the effort of the track in had not been worth it.

We tended to agree. It was pretty enough, but basically just a river and waterhole. I guess it is wilderness, although the history of the area featured grazing and some mining, so it is hardly unspoiled. But it was an experience, going in there, I suppose.

We lunched at the Waterhole, by the Severn River.

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The Severn River and Burrows Waterhole

It was harder to find our way out again, as there were several tracks around the camp area, heading out. We took one that turned out to be going to Rats Castle and didn’t realize it until we’d gone down a nasty loose rock slope. It was tricky getting back up that slope again – John had the Truck in the wrong gear and we stalled and slid back a bit. But managed it, in low range and crawled back to the top.

Even back on the correct track a couple of the other slopes were harder going up than they had been going down. There is a lesson in there, somewhere?

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At the top of one of the steep uphill sections

We detoured off the main track – deliberately this time – to visit Red Rock Gorge. This was only a 1.7km deviation and was not too hard. We had to walk a little way to the lookout over Red Rock Gorge and Falls. These were dry, but obviously could have quite a decent flow over them at times. It was quite rugged and dramatic and worth the visit.

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We could see how Red Rock Gorge got its name

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The waterfall at Red Rock Gorge was dry

There was a pretty little former dam, near the carpark, with lots of tadpoles in, which was good to see – as long as they were not cane toad tadpoles!

We took one more wrong turn on the way out, but realized quickly and were able to back up with no dramas. We met another 4WD vehicle coming into the Park. By now it was 4pm. He seemed to have plans to go to the Severn River, and back out again, today! We told him to go to Red Rock Gorge only – and hope he took our advice.

We reached the gate at 4.30pm. The return trip had taken us nearly three hours! I found that being moved and jolted around inside Truck all the time, is really tiring. Worse than driving – at least John has the steering wheel to hold on to. The road was hard on the tyres, due to the sharp rocks. We ran over a big stick that broke and thumped into the side of Truck – there is a new little “ding” there now. Overall, we thought Truck did the trip well.

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This fellow was determined to keep the post between him and me!

We drove 114kms today.

I made fried rice for tea.

We talked for a while with the young couple (with two children) in the van next to us. They too had a Disco – petrol and gas duel fuel, which they were now having trouble running on petrol, for some reason. Since gas can be hard to obtain, out of the cities, this is an issue for them. They are being nomadic for anything up to six years. He is currently fruit picking here – has a job for wages, until May. He has a farming background.

Each day here, so far, has been slightly warmer. It reached 29 degrees today. It felt quite hot, out at Sundown. It would not be a pleasant drive, out there, if it got much hotter. It is not quite as chilly at night, but we still need the doona.


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1999 Travels January 18

MONDAY 18 JANUARY     STANTHORPE

Were somewhat woken up this morning, fairly early, by the noise of resident workers heading off. Not too obtrusive, and we may get used to it. If John has his way, we’ll be joining them!

After a leisurely start, drove to the town centre. Went to the Post Office and collected our mail. Also there was the sapphire jewellery that I’d had made  – sent C.O.D. by J from Rubyvale. That is a useful service that I had not previously known about. The pale greeny ring and blue earrings came up beautifully and I am really pleased with them.

Then to the Tourist Information Centre. I bought a map of the Sundown National Park and collected information about the area – especially the other National Parks, which look really interesting. We had a long chat with the lady behind the counter, who has travelled extensively on camping and 4WD holidays. We do not seem to encounter many staff in such places who have a real understanding of what we are doing.

John stopped at the bowls club and went in to note their game times.

We went to the Employment Office and filled out forms to register there for harvest work. The man did not really indicate how likely we were to find work, but he did say that sometimes farms put signs up at their properties when workers were wanted, rather than going through the formal channels. So John got motivated to go driving round the district, later!

After lunch we set out driving. Followed the Amiens Road circuit drive, outlined in the tourist literature. This was a very attractive and pleasant drive. It took us though both farming country and bushland. We did not see any farm signs wanting pickers – but did see several saying that pickers were not required! I guess they might get sick of people calling in on the off chance and using up their time.

The route took us through several locations with names reminiscent of WW1 – because soldier settler farmers from that war settled here. Amiens, Pozieres, Passchendaele were names we saw – familiar from the research done last year on John’s father’s war.

We visited Donnelly’s Castle – a prominent hill with a jumble of huge granite boulders and formations. This was once a camp and lookout haunt for Captain Thunderbolt, the “gentleman bushranger”. It certainly gave excellent views over the surrounding country, from the top, which was a short clamber from where we parked Truck.

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Looking out over the Granite Belt country from Donnelly’s Castle

Can see why this area is called the Granite Belt – there are outcrops all over. Its fertility thus surprises me, rather – but fertile it is! Stone fruits, cherries, berries, apples, pears and lots of different vegetables are all grown around here. It is particularly noted for apples and pears. The cooler climate, due to its elevation, accounts for much of this farming.

We bought some lovely fruit from a roadside stall, on the way back to camp. We drove 126kms today.

Back at the van, opened and sorted the mail bag. There was not a great deal of note, apart from a book on gemstones that is our Xmas present from P and K. A thoughtful gift. There was the bill for the Truck registration. And a HUGE phone bill: obviously, Telstra was not giving $3 unlimited phone calls on Xmas Day, despite what John thought at the time, when he called all and sundry! Whoops. We have got to use the mobile phone less.

Tea was toasted ham sandwiches. As if we hadn’t had enough ham at Xmas!


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1999 Travels January 17

SUNDAY 17 JANUARY   TOOWOOMBA TO STANTHORPE   145kms

We got up at 8.10. No great urgency, since we were not going far, but we were away at 9.40, after a calm and unhurried pack up. We are getting so good!

It was a most pleasant drive south from Toowoomba. Between there and Warwick, the country was attractive cropping land, with views of hills and ranges all round. At Warwick we crossed the Condamine River – the name reminiscent of the poetry of Banjo Paterson.

After Warwick, the country became less “downs” like and more hilly. There was much less cropping and more grazing. At some stage we must have moved into what is known as the Granite Belt; if landuse is a guide, then about at Warwick. As the name suggests, this is an area where granite dominates the landforms and soil types.

Once we passed the junction with the Cunningham Highway, 13kms north of Stanthorpe, there were lots of semis on the road. This is the main inland and southern route.

We found the Top of the Town Caravan Park easily, located as its name suggests, on a hill on the northern edge of town. It is a Big 4 park, and only $12.60 a night, after discount, plus the seventh night free  – so we booked in for a week. This will help the budget nicely. It seems an adequate park. There are lots of backpackers staying here, in bunkroom type arrangements, working picking fruit and vegetables in the area. The caravan park has a little bus to run them around.

We were in and set up before lunch – an easy move.

After lunch, drove down to have a look at the town – quiet, as one would expect on a Sunday, but we were able to see where the supermarket and Post Office are.

The Quart Pot Creek – wonderful name – flows through the centre of town. We parked nearby and went for a walk on paths along its very well landscaped banks.

There is a real crispness in the air, here, an edge of chill. It is quite pleasant not to have the humidity. Stanthorpe is really high up – 811m above sea level, which is about a hundred metres more than Toowoomba. They can have snow here in winter!

The Qld/NSW border comes very close to the edge of town , then veers off a bit, and one crosses into NSW about 40kms south of here.

John had chilli flavoured sausages for tea, with eggs. I had salad.

Phoned K with our location.

John has seen a notice up in the park about harvest workers, and thinks we should register as fruit pickers – thinking we might make enough money to pay for a solar panel, and not have to fund it from invested money. I am dubious about harvest work – suspect it could be rather hard work for fairly low returns!

We need the doona on the bed tonight – first time for ages.

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