THURSDAY 30 JULY   DULHUNTY RIVER TO ELIOT FALLS CAMP   80kms

This morning, we had a good, quick pack up; there was really only tent and bedding, stove, table, chairs and lamp. The rest of the gear stays in the Truck and I clamber into the back to access it.

An older man – and I – had an altercation with some young people in four vehicles – the ones who had camped on the north bank last night, and done lots of chain sawing. They bought their vehicles over the river this morning, then went down to the rapids and proceeded to have baths – using soap, shampoo and toothpaste – IN the river. The other man reproached them – nicely – and they became abusive and threatening to him. I pointed out that it was very poor behaviour because downstream could be the water supply for somewhere – and that it was normal camper behaviour to wash away from water courses. One of them told the man who first spoke to them that he should be careful because there were 6 of them (men) and only one of him! I wrote down their rego numbers – they made us feel ashamed to be Victorians, like they were. The ugly face of 4WD travellers, for sure. Unfortunately, there are too many of them desecrating the countryside in the same way as these idiots.

Across the Dulhunty – easy, on the new exit route that avoids the two eroded ones. On up the Track, where every creek crossing coming up on the map promised a fresh adventure.

It was only about a km to the first of these – Bertie Creek – where we had to go into the creek on a rock platform, drive along it parallel to the bank, then do a zig and a zag through the water to the other side. We had others behind us, but took it at our pace, and it was ok.

Not long after that, we detoured off to the right, to go to Heathland Ranger Station, some 12kms away, where we booked a night’s camp at Eliot Falls campground. Paid $7 for this.

The heathland country we drove through to get to the Ranger base was very different to what we had been going through. Heath lands is an appropriate name. This area used to be Comalco’s beef cattle operation, in the 70’s and 80’s – meat for Weipa, mainly – but then they moved that to Sudley, near Weipa. This area was more like that of the plains country of Lakefield.

We drove back to the OTL Track, rejoining it just north of the notorious Gunshot Creek, neatly avoiding having to tackle that. We never intended to even try it – too much risk of major damage to Truck, with an almost vertical drop into the creek in a gully. It has become an ego thing for morons like those at the Dulhunty this morning, and is causing major damage to the creek itself. My guide books says that the Injinoo people are considering closing that section of the Track altogether, because of the moron factor. Since there is an alternative route available, via Heathlands, why do it?

We did go and have a look at it though. Quite a mess, with four eroded and boggy routes through it now.

Cockatoo Creek was the next challenge and we had no choice but to do that one. It was a bitch! The route through was an arc, with lots of potholes in the water, and some very sharp edged drops from rock ledges. We scraped something underneath on one of those. It was another where I walked ahead, trying to point out the worst obstacles and the (slightly) better path.

The remaining creeks before we reached the Bypass Road were badly eroded in places. Sailor Creek had just a bare vehicle width, with steep gullies on each side – and another rocky ledge.

Soon after Sailor Creek, we intersected with the Southern Bypass Road, which follows the old route for about 12kms, so that was better going. Then we turned right off this, back onto the OTL Track.

Soon turned right again, to go to Fruitbat Falls, on Eliot Creek. This was a beautiful place, and we’d thought we might have a swim here. But there was a bloody tour group here! Whoever invented 4WD buses should be shot. They were having lunch and swimming and it all felt a bit crowded! So we looked, then continued on.

Scrubby Creek provided us with one very nasty creek crossing to finish off the day. There was a narrow gully leading to the water – with a thigh deep hole in its middle. I got out and walked into the gully to try and see if we could somehow find a shallower bit of the hole. While I was looking, John assessed a really steep track that a few vehicles appeared to have taken, up the gully wall – really steep. Looked like a 45 degree angle, at least, to me. He gunned Truck up this – and it climbed up beautifully – to the amazement of both of us, I think. Then it was an easy way down to the creek crossing itself.

The Eliot Falls camp area was alright – bare ground, shade trees, rotaloos, tap water. The nearby Twin Falls swimming area was just brilliant. Also there are Indian Head Falls, but they are too risky for swimming. They were rather raging, and apparently there is a suction hole. We saw a couple of men with snorkels and wet suits exploring down Eliot Creek, further down from the Indian Head Falls – there are some really deep holes there, it seems.

Set up minimal camp again, in the heat. Then went to Twin Falls and swam for over an hour. Wonderful! Cool and clear. Twin Falls are actually on Canal Creek, just above its junction with Eliot Creek.

Tea was soup, then sausages in bread.

This is a good camp site. Despite the guide book warning of its popularity, it was not all that busy. There were only a couple of other lots of campers. We were visited by a small group of scrub turkeys who were very entertaining.

We might not have covered huge ground distances over the past couple of days, but they have been exhausting ones! So much bracing over rough roads. So much concentration for John – who has done so well. There is no temptation to stay up late. This camp site is quieter than last night’s, without the noise that was made by the hoon group over the river. Much better.